Do i need a new flywheel (replacing clutch)?

[Alpinweiße30]

Its time to replace the clutch on my 6/86 325e. I have been looking at pelican's clutch kits. they are labeled either with or without Twin Mass Flywheel. I did a little searching and think have found that i have the Twin Mass Flywheel. Is this right? Next question is do I need to replace the flywheel ($833 on pelican)? I have never done a clutch before so im not sure what a bad flywheel looks like. I know you can have them honed if they are not too bad but what should I be looking for? is there a source for a less expensive flywheel, or any other options?

Thanks for the help guys.

[CorvallisBMW]

You don't need to replace it but it's a good idea to have it re-surfaced. Most brake/tune up joints can do it, usually runs $20-$30.

[Alpinweiße30]

Thanks for the info dude, makes me feel a lit better about it all.

[Alpinweiße30]

What are the for sure parts that need to be replaced and the do it while im there parts that I need to replace? I know what I have seen in the clutch kits but do some of them have more than I need?

[KillaCams]

Definitely get your flywheel resurfaced or if you're willing to drop 8 bills on a flywheel look into a lightened one (like JB racing) You should do the pilot bearing, throw out bearing, rear main seal, and i would recommend doing the clutch master and slave cylinder if you got the cash for it. I think that's all, well it was all i did when i had my transmission off a few weeks ago.

[blacksport325]

bump, i'm going to need to do this soon as well, I knew your name sounded familiar, i'm also on NCEuro

[Alpinweiße30]

yup thats me. if i could get the car down there we could have a clutch party, haha. i'll let you know what I order and how it works out if i do it first.

[blacksport325]

Hah, if only you were around Raleigh...but let me know how it works out, i'm looking for a used one, i'll get my flywheel resurfaced but I dont need a brand new clutch, this one lasted over 220k miles from what it looks like.

[CorvallisBMW]

I wouldn't worry about replacing the clutch master/slave unless there's something wrong with them. Just bleed the lines. If they ever do go bad, it's not like they're hard to swap out, and you don't have to pull the tranny to do them or anything. I'd replace the pilot bearing, TO bearing and maybe the rear main depending on how many miles you have on the original.

[Alpinweiße30]

Does this list look right?

07-11-9-919-939-M9
Pressure Plate Bolt -
Brand: Genuine BMW
(4) $4.50

11-22-2-243-051-M9
Flywheel Bolt, 12x50mm, E36 BMW, 1992-99 -
Brand: Genuine BMW
(8)$36.00

21-51-1-202-659-M200
Pivot Pin for Throw-out Bearing Release Lever, 318i (1984-85), 318i/is/iC
Does this list look right?


(1991), 325/e/es/i/is/iC/iX (1984-91), M3 (1987-91) -
Brand: MTC
(1)$1.25

21-51-1-204-327-M9
Spring for Throw-out Bearing Release Lever, 318i (1984-85), 318i/is/iC (1991), 325/e/es/i/is/iC/iX (1984-91), M3 (1987-91) -
Brand: Genuine BMW
(1)$2.50

23-12-1-220-619-M30
Manual Transmission Input Shaft Seal (35 x 52 x 7), E12 528i (from 9/79); E30 325/e/es, 325i/is/iC/iX, M3; E28 528e, 533i, 535i/is, M5; E34 525i, 535i, M5; E24 633CSi (from 9/80), 635CSi, M6, 635CSi/M635CSi Euro; E23 733i (from 9/80), 735i; E32 735i -
Brand: Elring Klinger
(1)$5.25

21-21-1-223-546-M38
Clutch Kit for Twin Mass Flywheel, 325/e/es (from 05/86)
Brand: Sachs
(1)$256.75

PEL-TOL-CABW
Clutch Alignment Tool (Spline count = 10; Pilot diameter = 11.9 mm; Spline diameter = 28.5 mm), Fits BMW M10, M20, M30 engines with 12mm ID pilot bearings only
(1)$8.45

11-21-1-709-681-M40
Pilot Bearing, Ball Type -
Brand: INA
(1)$6.25


Shifter bushing refresh:

23-41-1-466-134-M200
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Dowel Pin for Shift Rod Joint
Brand: MTC
(1)$1.25

25-11-7-501-309-M200
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Shift Rod Joint, Standard Transmission, 318i (1984-85), 325/e/es/i/is/iC/iX (From 6/86 thru 08/89)
Brand: MTC
(1)$15.50

25-11-7-571-899-M9
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Shift Rod Circlip at Shift Rod Joint and Shift Lever, 318i (1984-85), 318i/is/iC (1991), 325/e/es/i/is/iC/iX (1984-91), M3 (1987-91), E36 3 Series, All (1992-99), 530i (E34), 540i (E34), Each
Brand: Genuine BMW
(1)$1.25

23-41-1-466-110-M9
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Ball Cup Bushing for Shift Lever Upper
Brand: Genuine BMW
(1)$10.75

23-41-1-666-133-BOE
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Shift Lever Rubber Buffer Ring, Inside Shift Lever Assembly, 318i (1984-86)
Brand: Genuine BMW
(1)$7.00

25-11-1-220-228-BOE
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Shift Lever Rubber Cap, Inside Shift Lever Assembly, 318i (1984-86)
Brand: Genuine BMW
(1)$4.50

25-11-1-207-744-M9
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Lower Ball Cup Bushing, 320i/is (1976-83), Each
Brand: Genuine BMW
(1)$5.25

25-11-1-221-243-M213
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: O-Ring for Shift Rod Joint Standard Transmission, 318i (1984-85), 318i/is/iC (1991), 325/e/es/i/is/iC/iX (1984-91), M3 (1987-91)
Brand: D P H
(2)$1.50

25-11-1-220-199-M9
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Shift Rod Spacer Shim, 10.2 X 16 X 0.65, BMW, As Needed, Each
Brand: Genuine BMW
(2)$2.00

25-11-1-208-580-M270
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Shift Tower Mount, 318i (1984-85), 325/e/es (thru 05/86), 633CSi (09/82-84),
Brand: Corteco
(2)$23.50

25-11-1-209-078-BOE
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Shift Rod Spacer, 2 Per Car, 320i/is (1976-83), Each
Brand: Corteco
(1)$1.00

25-11-1-203-682-M9
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Tension Bushing for Shift Rod Coupling
Brand: Genuine BMW
(1)$2.25

25-11-1-434-194-M9
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Rubber Buffer (Sponge) for Shift Rod Joint at Transmission, 318i (1984-85), 318i/is/iC (1991), 325/e/es/i/is/iC/iX (1984-91), M3 (1987-91), BMW E36 3-series all (1992-99)
Brand: Genuine BMW
(1)$2.25

07-11-9-932-863-BOE
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Selector Rod Circlip, Each
Brand: Genuine BMW
(1)$0.25

25-11-1-204-422-M9
Kit PEL-SKSBE30-03N: Buffer Stop for Shift Tower, each, E30 3-Series 318i (1984-85), 325/e/es (thru 05/86), E28 5-Series 528e/533i, E24 6-Series 633CSi (from 09/80), 635 CSi (thru 08/85)
Brand: Genuine BMW
(1)$9.75


Total: $408.95

[CorvallisBMW]

You shouldn't need new bolts, I think you can re-use the old ones. Unless they're stretch-bolts? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Pretty sure you can just re-use them like any other bolt, put some loktite on and go. Other than that it looks pretty good, you're really going all out on this with all new shifter parts!

[Alpinweiße30]

I either read somewhere or was told on another forum that i should replace the bolts, they are pretty inexpensive so its that that big of a deal. as for the shifter i saw this DIY Restoring a Sloppy Shifter and those are the parts it has listed. I know it needs to be done because the shifter rubs a hole in the boot when i put it into reverse.

[StereoInstaller1]

OK, before this gets out of hand...you do need to replace your flywheel, but not because of the reasons above.

You have a "dual mass" flywheel on your ETA. What this means is 2 things:

1) you have sensor magnets built into the flywheel. The crank signal sensors detect them spinning and make your motor run. You MUST have those sensors the way your car is now.

2) you will have a bitch of a time finding anyone to resurface your flywheel. Dual mass means just that: there are 2 hunks of flywheel looking metal, held together by rubber. The rubber can/does deteriorate, thus making your flywheel junk, if not 20 pounds of spinning junk, spinning at 4500RPM...with metal teeth on the edge. If you think most table saws spin slower than that, you are right. Table saws don't have 20 pounds of spinning mass, either.

All of that metal makes cutting them all nice and smooth a real bitch. Basically, it makes a half hour job into a 3 hour job AND it can be dangerous, if the rubber has broken down...which you can't really see.

As I said, most shops will not do dual mass flywheels.

So, choices? Change your motor to Motronic 1.1/1.3 and use a front trigger wheel. This would be new injectors, a new motor harness/ECU/chip and is most definitely a worthwhile upgrade...but stupid without the B25 head/intake manifold etc.

OR

Find a single mass (early ETA only) flywheel that has the sensors and is single mass.

Before you ask: yes, you could use that same flywheel on a budget stroke too (the Motronic 1.1/1.3 setup) if you wanted.

[Alpinweiße30]

well the problem is, I don't have $800 to drop on a flywheel alone. I got the whole car for $800. I'm going to be selling my other vehicle and this is going to become my DD. This job needs to get done in the next 2 weeks or I'm SOL on a car and getting to work. Can i buy a used flywheel or will it end up being the same thing? Can i get away without having it resurfaced? I simply cannot afford $800 for a new one. This does not need to last forever, just for a while, so we can get some money saved up (just had a baby, daycare is expensive, and trying to sell a house we owe more for than we bought it for. Bought it for $127,900 and it's "worth" ~$107,000).

[StereoInstaller1]

I think you should buy the one that is sitting in my garage, unless someone else has one for you who is closer (shipping is gonna be a bitch).

Anyone know a fair price for a flywheel?