Sputtering turned into missing

[Scallywagon]

Okay this is good shit right here.

Going to do the 4 fuel system tests first as I just got it back.

Smoke test showed no leaks.

Valve adjustment did nothing for the misses

[Deutschland über alles]

i left out this very important part (last 3 paragraphs)
how to check and see if you need to "mess" with the "wheel of fucking your afm"

the idle bypass screw starts at 1/4 to 1/2 from fully closed (fully closed then raise to 1/4 wait a minute, then another 1/4)

try this and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-11J8XawQtc
read this part first i had to find this info too and here is my copy and pasted answer

1)Here is the procedure I followed.

First some background information. The narrow band O2 sensor in our cars
is designed to keep the engine operating within a very narrow range around the ideal 14.5:1 air to fuel mixture. The O2 sensor is basically a little chemical generator that will vary in output voltage between 0 and 1 volt depending on how much oxygen is in the gases exiting the engine. If the engine is running too rich, the output voltage will rise to 0.7 volts or higher. If the engine is running lean, then the output will drop to 0.2 volts or less.

The Motronic ECU tries to keep the voltage output of the 02 sensor between 0.4 and 0.5 volts by increasing or decreasing the fuel injector pulse width compared to the internal reference map. A couple times a second, the ECU checks the 02 sensor output voltage, the throttle position, the flow rate through the AFM, the idle bypass setting (telling it how much air is bypassing the AFM), the air temperature, engine speed and engine temperature and looks up the fuel injector pulse width and timing advance to use. The ECU then adds or subtracts a correction factor based on the 02 sensor reading. The problem is the ECU can only add or subtract so much from the reference value. Therefore, if there are any significant errors in any of the input readings the car will run too rich or too lean. That is why you need a new ECU chip if you swap the fuel injectors or make any other significant changes to the car's engine.

O.K. now back to what I did.

I took a piece of thin insulated wire and stripped about 2 inches off the end. I disconnected the O2 sensor connector and placed the wire into the connector for the output line (black on a Bosch sensor). I then carefully reattached the connector. I ran this wire over to my multimeter and another wire to the car's ground.

I then fired up the engine and let the car fully warm up (coolant gauge at the halfway mark). Once the car warmed up, the sensor was putting out an almost constant 0.7 volts indicating that the engine idle mixture was too rich and the ECU was not able to compensate. I then turned the adjustment screw on the AFM counter clockwise a half turn and then blipped the throttle. I kept doing this until the voltage output dropped down to below 0.6 volts and the output started bouncing around between 0.25 and 0.7 indicating that the ECU was now varying the mixture to keep it at the ideal output.

Now hold the car at various rpm levels (1K, 2K, 3K) and watched the voltmeter to see if the readings continued to bounce around the .4 to .5 level. If the results look good, then you have the idle bypass adjusted roughly correct.

i should make this a sticky (too bad i copied and pasted it)

[Danny]

Okay yeah I'm gonna put my money on your AFM.

[dinanm3]

yeah you put a multi meter tester on the throttle position sensor and when its about to close it beeps and when open almost full it beeps.
but heres better detail
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...leshooting.htm

[Scallywagon]

Well I took the quick route and I threw my other AFM on, and nothing changed, its still missing

Idle isn't really an issue right now, I'm focused on the richness

When I tested the plugs the spark was pathetic and orange, I tested the coil and it was fine, which leaves me with the ancient plug wires and garbage distributor cap and rotor.

Ordered new cap/rotor from pelican parts should be here Monday.

[dinanm3]

cool
i need to check my drive shaft under hard acceleration car starts to vibrate bad
unless somethings loose from when i swaped a 373 in it.
i have a 410 opened sitting in garage. always something.
should be a blue spark so theres your problem not burning the fuel sweet congrats!!!!

[Deutschland über alles]

to deal with rich and lean try this instead of fucking up both of your afm's.
this is what bmw decided was best to do...The FQS - Fuel Quality Switch
Adjustments for Fuel and Ignition Advance http://www.motronic.ws/fqs.htm

[Scallywagon]

ECU Fixed it.

Hindsight tells me there is probably a chip in that other one, that was calling for larger injectors that were pulled before the car was sold to me.

Thanks for the help and that AFM job is a bookmark trick.