1990' 325i
Im still having some issues. At traffic lights once the car is warmed up with the heat on or at idle in general the air blows cold. Once the car is moving the air gets hot again. I was told this could be due to air in the cooling system. I recently replaced my radiator, thermostat, and fan clutch and bled the cooling system. Last winter before all this was replaced my heat worked even at idle.
This is the procedure I used below. I have a few questions!
1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.
2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.
3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.
The filler cap you mention is the coolant overflow cap right?
4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.
So I crack the bleed screw on the thermostat while the car is running correct?
5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.
I did this procedure before when I replaced those parts. It seemed to work then. The cold air is just alot more noticeable now that theres a wind chill of 14 here at night. When I bled it before, straight coolant was coming out of the bleed screw hole when I was done. the car does not overheat, the needle sits just below 1/2 way!
Any ideas so I can get my heat back?
Im still having some issues. At traffic lights once the car is warmed up with the heat on or at idle in general the air blows cold. Once the car is moving the air gets hot again. I was told this could be due to air in the cooling system. I recently replaced my radiator, thermostat, and fan clutch and bled the cooling system. Last winter before all this was replaced my heat worked even at idle.
This is the procedure I used below. I have a few questions!
1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.
2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.
3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.
The filler cap you mention is the coolant overflow cap right?
4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.
So I crack the bleed screw on the thermostat while the car is running correct?
5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.
I did this procedure before when I replaced those parts. It seemed to work then. The cold air is just alot more noticeable now that theres a wind chill of 14 here at night. When I bled it before, straight coolant was coming out of the bleed screw hole when I was done. the car does not overheat, the needle sits just below 1/2 way!
Any ideas so I can get my heat back?
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