325IX restore and build continued(turbo, e34ix diff, DCT)

[nomansland92]

Ok some of you may have seen my first thread about this car and me doing the body work and suspension but heres the link to see what the car started as.
(beware the pics are huge for some reason on that tread thats why im starting a new one.)
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=226065

In summery i stripped the car down and fixed the rust straightened it then painted it, then i replaced all the suspension with ground control coils and replaced every bushing bearing and etc... pretty much. I did that project over a 2 year span then took a break for a year to get to drive it for a change. I got almost 15k on it this summer and the car did great but now the time has came for MORE POWER!


Started by just remove the panels to keep them from getting scrated


getting everything disconnected


And we have lift off. It was actually very easy to lift the body over it. I think the biggest pain in the ass was disconnecting the shifter to later realize i really didn't have to even remove that pain in the ass clip.





After a harbor freight run i found these wheels that will hold 450lbs each for 30 bucks and they swivel! So i built this little jig that bolts to the cross member mounts and it holds pretty nice.


Did a little more stripping then i pressure washed everything and well it didn't come much cleaning haha.


Later this week I'm going to separate the motor and open it up and see how it looks inside. All my goodies should be coming in from Ireland engineering soon also.

Here whats happen with the motor
2.8 stroker
diesel forged 81mm crank
Ross racing pistons 8.5:1 comp
Ireland engineering forged rods
Full ARP hardware

The head I'm still thinking about, probably just going to order from bimmerheads. it Will have welded jackets and upgraded rockers, possible upgraded springs, maybe just maybe 1mm over valves.
I would like upgraded valve springs but im not sure if ill need them, I need to figure out what RMP i can safely get from this crank. I should be safe to at least 7k all day. Ill most likely run the car n/a for a little bit to break it in then ill add the turbo and megasquirt.

As of now i have a hx35 industrial turbo(not from a cummins), it has a 48mm compressor wheel with a 12cm exhaust. So i think i need to get a 56mm compressor wheel at least. And the price of a new compressor cover and wheel plus what i bought the turbo for is a lot for just an hx35. So I'm debating selling that for a garrett. But i know nothing about those and have no clue what size to go for. I'm still doing me research but any suggestions would be nice. Needs to be T3 and i want reasonably quick spool and i would like to see around 18+ psi with a electric boost controller.

[litu]

Sound very interesting project...Nice :)

[Nisse Järnet]

I revved my old M20B28 turbo to 7-7500rpm with upgraded valve train and it was just fine :)

Car looks clean!!

[jeenyus]

This should be a fun project! It will be cool to see a turbo AWD.

[Mlarsen]

You're building the same engine as me, minus the pistons. I was planning on going to high comp if I was going to get pistons. Should be beast man! Can't wait for the updates.

[nomansland92]

wheeled the driveline out to pressure wash everything


Got everything pulled off it, still needs for cleaning though.


Got the tranny separated for now.
That's probably all ill get to it this week, ill pickup on it next weekend though. Hopefully going to start sand blasting the engine bay and fixing a few little rust spots to get ready for primer.

[AWDBOB]

Sweet! I've been waiting for this!

If you need someone to watch over your GC kit while your engine is out, just let me know.

As of now i have a hx35 industrial turbo(not from a cummins), it has a 48mm compressor wheel with a 12cm exhaust. So i think i need to get a 56mm compressor wheel at least. And the price of a new compressor cover and wheel plus what i bought the turbo for is a lot for just an hx35. So I'm debating selling that for a garrett. But i know nothing about those and have no clue what size to go for. I'm still doing me research but any suggestions would be nice. Needs to be T3 and i want reasonably quick spool and i would like to see around 18+ psi with a electric boost controller.

Also, HX35s are dinosaurs. Are you going to be on an open scroll manifold? I would HIGHLY recommend going twin scroll. Your transient response and spool (and top end) will eat up a similar open scroll setup.

What are your power goals? The new Precision billet 5858s and 6262s are very nice, but they're junk in JB trim- you must go DBB with Precision stuff. My favorite turbo is the Borg Warner EFR stuff (gamma-ti turbine wheel), but they can get pricey. For the money (ONLY if you're going twin scroll, because BWs really were designed around TS) A S200SX FMW or a S300SX FMW depending on your power goals would be a VERY responsive and fun setup for the street.. A standard Garrett 30r or 35r is totally outdated now too, however, Forced Performance makes their own billet wheels for them.

Hope that helps.

[nomansland92]

Sweet! I've been waiting for this!

If you need someone to watch over your GC kit while your engine is out, just let me know.



Also, HX35s are dinosaurs. Are you going to be on an open scroll manifold? I would HIGHLY recommend going twin scroll. Your transient response and spool (and top end) will eat up a similar open scroll setup.

What are your power goals? The new Precision billet 5858s and 6262s are very nice, but they're junk in JB trim- you must go DBB with Precision stuff. My favorite turbo is the Borg Warner EFR stuff (gamma-ti turbine wheel), but they can get pricey. For the money (ONLY if you're going twin scroll, because BWs really were designed around TS) A S200SX FMW or a S300SX FMW depending on your power goals would be a VERY responsive and fun setup for the street.. A standard Garrett 30r or 35r is totally outdated now too, however, Forced Performance makes their own billet wheels for them.

Hope that helps.

Thanks that is very helpful, I will look more into those turbos, the manifold I haven't now is a 666 adapter with open scroll, I would like to get a good quality manifold if any good ones pop up I'll be trying to grab one but a eBay manifold just isn't what I'm looking for.
As for power goals I'm really only looking for 300-350 but any more is a bonus.

[Nisse Järnet]

If you replace the stock cam with a Z45 or similar 4-500hp @ 1 bar boost shouldn't be a problem :)
I was really happy with the performance of my 2,8 M20 with a PT6765.

[Old city bimmer]

Looks great so far


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[nomansland92]

Didn't get a chance to post any pictures last weekend but I've got a few things done since then

Got all the rust taken care of and started seam sealing all the factoy seams to make them nice and smooth



Probably could have gotten away without notching this but i wanted the extra room.


I had to notch the bottom out. Lots of welding and grinding pretty much


Intercooler mounts all made up.


heres how the intercooler fits

[nomansland92]

progress has been slow lately but its getting done

I didn't go crazy with the body work, i just wanted it to look good not perfect so i wasn't filling all the factory holes and smoothing everything. But either way it still turned out pretty nice.







Started pulling apart the motor and found this on the 6th cylinder, almost looks it was sitting with coolant in the cylinder? I'm planing on taking it to my local machine shop soon to see if this will be a problem because its being bored 1mm over.



These goodies also came in!


Starting playing with the engine bay , might be a little to flashy

[E30NJ]

Not my photo, but this is what Mesarina did with that gold wrap:

More here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show....php?p=4297824

[nomansland92]

That does look pretty good, I think once i starting getting things back in i will like it more.

The motor in the front is from my car, the other is a spare, i was told it has around 150k on it and nothing was wrong with it, until i pulled the head and found 2 bent valves and no wood drift key on the crank



Also anyone know anything about the Oil intermediate shaft bearings? From what I've read it doesn't seam like most people replace them. I understand its not a job everyone is capable of but is there any reason a good machine shop wouldn't be able to properly do them? I don't feel any physical play in them but I've already gone this far so i would hate not to do them just because there right there.

[Bimmer_man]

Hey man nice turbo project cause wait to see it in action.