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M20 build finally

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    #16
    just because i am not sure...what is the best oil for break-in. running royal purple 15w50 after that.

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      #17
      royal purple makes a great engine break in oil

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        #18
        just want to make sure the rings seat well
        i am leaning towards kendall gt-1 20w50
        Last edited by riceh8r; 04-13-2011, 04:35 PM.

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          #19
          nice rebuild! add some boost to that strocked engine and u will be even happier!
          no more boosted m20, 91 318i...

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            #20
            went with valvoline racing oil and a k&m filter. .2% zinc, highest out there.

            engine bay is complete...



            had a few complications at start up...blown starter fuse. cranked for a few seconds and she fired right up...yea, put the hood on.

            road trip was good...glad to have her on the road again. thanks for watching me take forever to build my first m20 ever...

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              #21
              just came home from my third 30 mile test drive...smooth as silk. no issues, and no fluid leaks. looking forward to another 250k out of her...:-D

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                #22
                Very nice man!

                I was always told you should never break in with synthetic. I always use the cheap Walmart 20w-50 which actually is halfway decent and has high zinc content. Then at 1000 miles switch to synthetic of choice.

                Interesting choice to install the intake, front covers, etc. after dropping it in...I always find that stuff much easier out of the car. But if that worked good then that's cool!
                Owned lots of E30's
                Currently sporting:
                85 324td
                86 535i
                89 635csi
                Feedback thread

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by riceh8r View Post
                  1st shop wanted $350 just for the head...i laughed as i walked out the door. they got a stripped head, machined it and installed new guides and i put it all back together...$100
                  So you didnt't get them to recut seats and match grind the valves?

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                    #24
                    yes they did, and tested the seat seal too.

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                      #25
                      You think yours was long X) I only did a quarter of what you did which was simply swap in a new motor and its taken months :hitler: But I'm jobless and there's always time to wait on free stuff :P Now having starter issues as well only I believe it's the starter itself.

                      Your buld is great inspiration and I don't doubt it will give you more than 250k :)
                      Bronzit 4-door Swap Drifting somewhere
                      Cammed B25 Swap Daily Driver
                      Updated 10/1

                      Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
                      Maybe 300 CANADIAN HP, thats like 225 US HP.

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                        #26
                        That's a happy ending to your tragic tale. Hope it runs like a champ.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by riceh8r View Post
                          yes they did, and tested the seat seal too.
                          wow! I guess I got to start shoping around when it comes to machine work

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                            #28
                            check around at your auto parts stores, ask senior employees for shop recommendations. and it really helps the cost if you can take in a stripped head, no studs or anything...clean it too. that knocked off a good chunk, and got me some respect from the machinest.

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                              #29
                              post up a vid plz curious to see what she sounds like all new ;)

                              keepin it real since 1990

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                                #30
                                commin' up soon

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