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New Belts, and then PUKE

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    New Belts, and then PUKE

    PO did the timing belt/water pump, valve adjustment way earlier, all belts, and fixed the a/c.

    At anything above 4k rpm one or more of the drive belts were squealing really bad, just by hand the one on the compressor and water pump was loose....28 bucks for three new belts and my family friend/mechanic replaced them in an hour and a half.....

    I take it out for a test drive, squealing is gone, engine sounds quieter right out of the lot. Something strange was occurring, my temp gauge was steady as can be and actually giving normal reading from cold at start up to warm running temp on the road.....So I figured maybe the added tension that wasn't there before was making my pump and cooling system flow correctly...

    After testing like 4 times in the higher rpms it was running amazing. Way better then before, AND my temp gauge was no longer fluttering around and dependent on me tapping on the cluster to make it click into place.

    I go to head home and POP loud bang and vibrating noise thats heavily rpm dependent....after listening to it idle slowing from like 40 with the clutch pushed in....idle was fine and no noise.....

    Barely puttering under 2k I pulled into the closest road and then....It puked all the coolant out from around the water pump area, the fan clutch was loose as can be, My guy said it could be a hose, radiator or both..worst case scenario maybe the water pump....

    Sound normal? why would my temp gauge be reading normal after a belt change? Maybe the pump wasn't spinning? possible I over heated?..I don't think I over heated though, was on the road for 30 seconds after it happened...

    My first e30 and my first 'major' break down and I'm nervous as hell to see what the diagnosis will be tomorrow...Looking for some outside words of advice and or possible outcomes from anyone here with some knowledge on the coolant system

    #2
    Originally posted by BergerNJ View Post
    AND my temp gauge was no longer fluttering around and dependent on me tapping on the cluster to make it click into place.
    Completely unrelated.

    Ich gehöre nicht zur Baader-Meinhof Gruppe

    Originally posted by Top Gear
    Just imagine waking up and remembering you're Mexican.

    Every time you buy a car with DSC/ESC, Jesus kills a baby seal. With a kitten.


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      #3
      Originally posted by u3b3rg33k View Post
      Completely unrelated.

      well I found it strange that my temp gauge wasn't doing that anymore and actually acted like a normal gauge for once....slowly climbing to a warm reading and holding in place...EVERY day before this belt replacement the gauge wouldn't move until I tapped it

      That's why I added that in there

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        #4
        The temperature gauge behavior is unlikely to be associated with the belt chang, but is likely to be cause by a poor connection in the cluster.

        The squealing belt may have been caused by a failing water pump. If it's bearings finally seized that could explain the noise, coolant leak, and loose fan.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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          #5
          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
          The temperature gauge behavior is unlikely to be associated with the belt chang, but is likely to be cause by a poor connection in the cluster.

          The squealing belt may have been caused by a failing water pump. If it's bearings finally seized that could explain the noise, coolant leak, and loose fan.

          well once the new belt was in, the car didn't squeal at all and actually felt better...but I guess I'll find out tomorrow afternoon sometime after my guy tears it apart.....I wish I had more resources available because I'd be doing just that instead of sitting on the computer..

          edit....re read what you posted...I read it completely wrong, so your saying maybe the correct tension finally seized it?.....the fan was super loose after I let things cool down a bit and was waiting for the wrecker

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            #6
            If the bearings in the water pump were failing, they may have put enough load on the belt to cause it to slip. The new belt didn't slip and would have accelerated the failure of the bearing. Bad water pump bearings will cause the fan to be wobbly and loose.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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              #7
              Originally posted by jlevie View Post
              If the bearings in the water pump were failing, they may have put enough load on the belt to cause it to slip. The new belt didn't slip and would have accelerated the failure of the bearing. Bad water pump bearings will cause the fan to be wobbly and loose.

              well I think you're right.....my mechanic is pulling it apart probably monday now.....Should I contact the PO and ask what kind of pos water pump he claimed he put in?

              He claims he did the water pump and timing belt like a month before I bought it....Should I just not trust him and do the timing belt too? Or do you think I'd be able to see if the timing belt is somewhat new?

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                #8
                Originally posted by BergerNJ View Post
                well I think you're right.....my mechanic is pulling it apart probably monday now.....Should I contact the PO and ask what kind of pos water pump he claimed he put in?
                ?
                What would be the point? Did you get any kind of warranty on the car when you bought it?

                I'd just ask the mechanic to have a look at the belt when he's got the front of the engine open and if it looks dodgy just go ahead and replace it while he's in there. Or just go ahead and replace the belt anyway just for peace of mind, that's one belt you don't want to let go on you.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by redhatpat View Post
                  What would be the point? Did you get any kind of warranty on the car when you bought it?

                  I'd just ask the mechanic to have a look at the belt when he's got the front of the engine open and if it looks dodgy just go ahead and replace it while he's in there. Or just go ahead and replace the belt anyway just for peace of mind, that's one belt you don't want to let go on you.

                  bought it from a used car dealer, who has a liking to used bmws....

                  We didn't have anything in writing but told us he did all this service and guaranteed it...

                  I have a feeling if it really is the water pump, which I thought it was that day but just needed some affirmation....I will be doing the timing belt just so I don't have it on the back of my mind..

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                    #10
                    **Update** For anyone whose curious...


                    Fan Clutch went bad at 2k rpm and it was off its axis so bad it popped the water pump off the engine

                    After this incident, I would say checking/replacing the fan clutch is just as important as the water pump and timing belt with an unknown or high mileage e30.
                    Attached Files

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                      #11
                      A bad fan clutch can't take out the water pump, but a bad water pump can take out a worn fan clutch.
                      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                        #12
                        you see the picture of the water pump?

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