M20 Water pump replacement w/o TB

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  • sleepy350
    Advanced Member
    • Feb 2011
    • 127

    #1

    M20 Water pump replacement w/o TB

    Hey guys. So I have an 88 325is, and the water pump has recently started leaking from what looks like, the bearing. (or the shaft or whatever you call it.) I have a receipt from the previous owner showing that the Timing belt and water pump was replaced 15,000-20,000 miles ago, and at this time I don't feel the need to replace the belt. But, the water pump must go. I have the pump on order and I was wondering if I could pull the pump without removing the TB. From what I can see on AllData and other guides I have seen for replacing the Water pump and timing belt, there is no issue with removing the pump independently but I would like to have first hand testimony. That way I when I get in there, I don't end up finding out I have to order a Timing belt.

    Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance guys.

    -Angelo
    -1988 BMW 325is - Sold
    -1991 BMW 535i - Parted out
    -1994 BMW 530i/5 - Sold
    -1970 Chevy C10/LWB
    -1973 Chevy C10/SWB stepside
    -1984 Chevy C10/LWB
    -2008 R56 MCS - Dead
    -2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD-OR DCLB
  • jasonsnoddy
    E30 Mastermind
    • Feb 2010
    • 1900

    #2
    just do the tbelt too, that way they are on the same interval. itll save you time down the road.


    Originally posted by stewie30luvr
    ooo cause i was fixing my chain tensioner and there was a black widow on the radiator so i killed it
    Originally posted by JakeP
    with a coathanger

    Comment

    • sleepy350
      Advanced Member
      • Feb 2011
      • 127

      #3
      Ahh, I was afraid someone someone was gonna say that. I'm kinda in a pinch for money and I know that AllData book time for the TB/WP replacement is about 2-3 hours. In my current situation I think I'll stick with just replacing the pump as long as I dont have to pull the belt tensioner off; If I do then ill just replace the belt I guess.
      -1988 BMW 325is - Sold
      -1991 BMW 535i - Parted out
      -1994 BMW 530i/5 - Sold
      -1970 Chevy C10/LWB
      -1973 Chevy C10/SWB stepside
      -1984 Chevy C10/LWB
      -2008 R56 MCS - Dead
      -2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD-OR DCLB

      Comment

      • jasonsnoddy
        E30 Mastermind
        • Feb 2010
        • 1900

        #4
        book time? are you having a shop do it?


        Originally posted by stewie30luvr
        ooo cause i was fixing my chain tensioner and there was a black widow on the radiator so i killed it
        Originally posted by JakeP
        with a coathanger

        Comment

        • 7pilot
          E30 Addict
          • Feb 2009
          • 475

          #5
          It can be done without touching the timing belt.
          The only point of involvement is the tensioning spring for the TB tensioner.

          m

          Comment

          • sleepy350
            Advanced Member
            • Feb 2011
            • 127

            #6
            Originally posted by jasonsnoddy
            book time? are you having a shop do it?
            I work in a shop. Never have done a TB/WP on a M20 is the only reason I'm asking.

            Originally posted by 7pilot
            It can be done without touching the timing belt.
            The only point of involvement is the tensioning spring for the TB tensioner.

            m
            So the tension would be released from the belt?
            -1988 BMW 325is - Sold
            -1991 BMW 535i - Parted out
            -1994 BMW 530i/5 - Sold
            -1970 Chevy C10/LWB
            -1973 Chevy C10/SWB stepside
            -1984 Chevy C10/LWB
            -2008 R56 MCS - Dead
            -2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD-OR DCLB

            Comment

            • jasonsnoddy
              E30 Mastermind
              • Feb 2010
              • 1900

              #7
              Originally posted by sleepy350
              So the tension would be released from the belt?

              yes. check the diy for an idea of what exactly youll be doing



              Originally posted by stewie30luvr
              ooo cause i was fixing my chain tensioner and there was a black widow on the radiator so i killed it
              Originally posted by JakeP
              with a coathanger

              Comment

              • sleepy350
                Advanced Member
                • Feb 2011
                • 127

                #8
                Lol, eff it. I'll just replace the belt too. I didn't think that the belt would lose tension. Shit if I'm gonna run the risk of the cam or crank ending up off by one tooth or so and having to line everything up again, I might as well. Thanks guys. Belt and tensioner will be ordered tomorrow morning when I get to work.
                -1988 BMW 325is - Sold
                -1991 BMW 535i - Parted out
                -1994 BMW 530i/5 - Sold
                -1970 Chevy C10/LWB
                -1973 Chevy C10/SWB stepside
                -1984 Chevy C10/LWB
                -2008 R56 MCS - Dead
                -2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD-OR DCLB

                Comment

                • nando
                  Moderator
                  • Nov 2003
                  • 34827

                  #9
                  Originally posted by jasonsnoddy
                  yes. check the diy for an idea of what exactly youll be doing

                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/BOARD/show...iming+belt+diy
                  NO.

                  this is soooooo frustrating and misunderstood. You don't have to release tension from the belt. the tensioner spring is to set the tension for you while you bolt it down. You don't need it on the car once the tensioner is bolted down.

                  make sure the tensioner is tight. Remove the water pump and put your new one in. save the tensioner/spring somewhere you can find it. That's it.
                  Build thread

                  Bimmerlabs

                  Comment

                  • jlevie
                    R3V OG
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 13530

                    #10
                    The tensioner should always be re-installed. In addition to being the means of setting timing belt tension, it also serves as a saftey in case the tensioner lock bolt loosens. It is possible to replace the pump w/o changing the belt, but that is pretty much a two person job. One holds the pump in place against the spring while the other runs in the bolts. While doing this there is a risk of damaging the gasket.

                    With a belt and tension being as cheap as they are, it makes more sense to replace the belt and tensioner along with the pump.
                    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                    Comment

                    • nando
                      Moderator
                      • Nov 2003
                      • 34827

                      #11
                      you meant the tensioner spring, but I respectfully disagree. :)
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

                      Comment

                      • 7pilot
                        E30 Addict
                        • Feb 2009
                        • 475

                        #12
                        The tensioner pulley is unaffected in function if the mounting bolt for the tensioner pulley is not loosened.
                        The tensioner spring is anchored by a notch on the waterpump base.

                        I did this job last week w/o touching the tensioner pulley(less than 2k on the belt).
                        I reinstalled the tensioner pulley spring with the new pump.

                        If you don't know how old/mileage is on the timing belt/tensioner pulley combo, then it had better be replaced with a new kit. False economy not to.

                        m

                        Comment

                        • tinkerputzer
                          E30 Addict
                          • Jun 2008
                          • 508

                          #13
                          It's easy to install the tensioner spring and pin with one person before you install the water pump. 1. Compress the pin and spring as far as possible from the water pump side of the tensioner. 2. Clamp onto the pin with a vise-grips from the other side to hold it in place. 3. Install the water pump by yourself.

                          Comment

                          • antil33t
                            Advanced Member
                            • Feb 2010
                            • 176

                            #14
                            Would just bite the bullet and replace the lot. We all know that 50 bucks saved now is 100 buck later.

                            And don't forget the camshaft seal. :-D


                            Sent from my HTC 7 Trophy using Board Express

                            Comment

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