Engine Won't Start After Timing Belt Fiasco!

[engrlks]

bad coil? idk. just try swapping shit i guess.

that muffler shit sounds wierd. is your engine ground connected?

I just tested the voltage across the coil and it shows 0V with the ignition on?! There is still a spark when doing a spark test.....is this possible?

Also, forgot to mention that one of the timing belt covers has a stripped thread (on the engine block) so I can't screw in the bolt without retapping the block (you can see a slight gap):


Weird thing is it ran fine before the rotor broke. Is it possible I blew a relay when the rotor cracked?

[billybobjoseph]

If the car isn't actually running the brain will not send current to the primary coil. The way to test the coil is with an ohm meter.

[engrlks]

If the car isn't actually running the brain will not send current to the primary coil. The way to test the coil is with an ohm meter.

Since I'm getting a spark, it probably isn't worth testing at this point.

[e30trooper]

clean valve cover

[billybobjoseph]

Back to that fusible link; you gotta peel off the rubber coating and look at the link. It has a solid piece of plastic that the link is across and I don't think feeling it will tell you if it's blown or not. If it is blown you won't get power to your fuel pump relay.

[engrlks]

Back to that fusible link; you gotta peel off the rubber coating and look at the link. It has a solid piece of plastic that the link is across and I don't think feeling it will tell you if it's blown or not. If it is blown you won't get power to your fuel pump relay.

Just checked the fuseable link and its fine....man, anyone have any other ideas why this engine isn't starting? Main relay maybe?

All I know is that the knocking got worse, there was a loud pop, the engine cranked but didn't start, I tore it apart and found the messed up rotor, and the damn thing still doesn't start.

[billybobjoseph]

Can you still turn the motor by hand?

[engrlks]

Can you still turn the motor by hand?

yeah

[billybobjoseph]

I think I'd start looking at the head. If that cam was loose you may have thrown a rocker or something. Might try a leak down test as well. Then I'd strip the front end down to the belt and make sure the timing is correct.

[billybobjoseph]

Did you get a new distributor cap? If not is the little metal nub in the middle that sends power to the rotor still there?

[engrlks]

Did you get a new distributor cap? If not is the little metal nub in the middle that sends power to the rotor still there?

Since I get a spark on all plugs, it shouldn't be the dist. I also ripped off the valve cover and the cams turn fine. I don't know whats going on here.

[engrlks]

Distributor cap is fine, and cams are fine. Is it possible there might have been a short in the relays? Maybe the ECU (unfortunately I don't have one to swap in)

[billybobjoseph]

The coil is controlled by the directly by the ecu. The main relay and the fuel pump relay would be worth checking. Also make sure you have the crank pos sensor hooked up to the right plug. Easy to get swapped.

[engrlks]

Just to update. I ended up borrowing a gauge and did a compression test on the cylinders....no pressure on ANY of them. I used a screwdriver to find TDC in the head and found that the crank was actually about 1 tooth away from the timing mark. So by adjusting the crank one tooth to match up the timing marks when I initially start this project, I actually put the engine out of time.

Still debating on whether I should replace the head, or part it out....a sad end to my e30.

[engrlks]

Thanks for all your help guys, it was a big help in narrowing down the problem. Bum deal; the car was solid as a rock before I changed the tbelt. Brand new brake pads/sensors, new tires, spark plugs, m3 suspension setup....bahhh.

Unfortunately my time and location are limited (moving by then of June), so I can't tinker with it much. Anyone have a ballpark for how long a head swap will take?