when moving the car runs about 1/3 temp, but in traffic or at idle it quickly gets hot. if i run through a drive thru it will be over 3/4 by the time i get my food. i replaced the radiator with an aluminum one tonight and went to bleed the system and nothing happened. i ran the car hot with the heat on and cap on, unscrewed the bleeder and waited. and waited. squeezed the hose from the radiator, and nothing. fan clutch tests good, water pump is 10mos old. i need to drive this piece to school through LA traffic heppp me!
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Originally posted by mkcman17 View Postwhen moving the car runs about 1/3 temp, but in traffic or at idle it quickly gets hot. if i run through a drive thru it will be over 3/4 by the time i get my food. i replaced the radiator with an aluminum one tonight and went to bleed the system and nothing happened. i ran the car hot with the heat on and cap on, unscrewed the bleeder and waited. and waited. squeezed the hose from the radiator, and nothing. fan clutch tests good, water pump is 10mos old. i need to drive this piece to school through LA traffic heppp me!
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This could be, air in the cooling system, a bad fan clutch, or a bad thermostat. I'd include a partially plugged radiator, but that's not likely in this case.
To properly bleed the radiator do:
1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.
2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.
3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.
4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.
5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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New thermostat today, and after cleaning the old corroded housing the heat blew considerably hotter. Corrosion had clogged the bleeder but after cleaning I was able to bleed it properly. Unfortunately, car still gets hotter when idling. Idfk.1989 325is / 2.7, 274 cam, e30 M3 5-lug
1989 LN106 Hilux / 3.0TD SFA
1974 2002tii / stock
2002 IS300 / 5spd LSD
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