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When an event occurs does the tach go to zero while in gear and moving? That would suugest a problem with the CPS, DME, or DME power/ground. If the tach doesn't drop the fuel system becomes the likely suspect.
i am having the same problems from time to time.....
PS be careful I was having a similar problem (that I never got to the bottom of) and spun a rod bearing under heavy load and now I'm back on here getting advice on an m20 swap. Could have been the camshaft position sensor, could have been the fuel pump not keeping up after a fuel filter replacement, could have been a lot of things. Just don't go reproducing the problem too many times!
PS be careful I was having a similar problem (that I never got to the bottom of) and spun a rod bearing under heavy load and now I'm back on here getting advice on an m20 swap. Could have been the camshaft position sensor, could have been the fuel pump not keeping up after a fuel filter replacement, could have been a lot of things. Just don't go reproducing the problem too many times!
ive already replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. how did you spin arod bearing? and under a heavy load of what? fuel. what do you mean by producing the problem too many times?
DME power is provided by the small cable that connects to the battery positive post. That wire includes a fusible link that can go bad. If that happens the DME may "brown out". The DME grounds are the set of brown wires that are tied to the chassis at the right side shock tower.
I have not heard this anywhere. I cant wait to try it! I sure hope it works. Thanks.
Make sure you MAF isn't coming unplugged from a broken clip or check your O2. I had an 85 535i that used to do vodo magic like that and it ended up being the O2 shorting out.
this happens to me too... i drive the car around and sometimes what's worst is that when im on the freeway.. the car would lose power ( it will starts to choke) lights from the dash would lit and the rpm needle would just drop then the car will die.....
i would take out the ground cable of the battery and put it back on.... and after few minutes the car will be drivable again....
i think were in the same boat, mine will drive fine, and at 2300 rpms, after getting up to running temp, theres just zero responsiveness, no shifting, no accelerating, just stays at 2300 rpms, but in neutral it will rev up, and ive replaced everything you have
Dubstep... :blowup:... Its kinda like that
86' 325 "Deadweight" Currently Bone stock
i think were in the same boat, mine will drive fine, and at 2300 rpms, after getting up to running temp, theres just zero responsiveness, no shifting, no accelerating, just stays at 2300 rpms, but in neutral it will rev up, and ive replaced everything you have
Check the TPS and make sure that the WOT switch works and run the fuel system tests in the Bentley manual.
The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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