Ah ok, will not argue with that one, had a fun time putting mine back on with lining the oil pump driveshaft and then get the pump on.
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So I had it up on the lift, just to give the perspective, after getting the gasket to stay in place I had to first get the shaft in place and slide the pump up, bolt that in and the oil level, then bolt the pan in.
Was not as easy as it seems in that sentence as I could barely fit my hands through the gap between the block and pan, and as mentioned before this was all above my head, so blood flow became an issue. I hope that answers your question, had to assemble with pan sitting almost in place with the limited room left.
Nice my Grandma lives right up there, a little different here in South Jersey though.Comment
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Ok, so that's difficult.. I think I'm going to raise the engine a little so that I can put the pump on first, I will also remove the front assembly. I'm working on the ground under jacks, LOL. Hopefully I can pull this off. Did you use any type contact cement? I also changed all the nuts and bolts on the ass'y and oil pan and mounts.
Thanks
BarryComment
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I had to, but did not want to as I had a cork gasket and makes a better seal when oil is the only thing it absorbs.
I will be replacing it again soon, but will have the entire engine out then, am doing a major overhaul, the guy I bought it from didn't seem to like to do maintenance, especially indicated by fuel filter and a few other parts still stamped West Germany or 1984.
With it being on the ground you have a lesser force pulling the blood from your arms, but ramps and jack stands help.Comment
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OK so what I did is remove the four front assembly bolts and the two bolts that hold the steering bar and the driver side steering rod at the hub. With everything loose and the motor jacked to the top of the fan cage I was able to put the oil pump on and slide the oil pan on with no problem. Had to replace engine mounts, one was totally broken, sway bar grommets were the same.
Hey its done right, first time changed in 23 years
Thanks
BarryComment
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Sorry if this has been covered, just skimmed the thread.
Even saw some guy with an engine hoist and had to dropped the sub-frame! :shock:
Super EZ way ok.
Unbolt engine/trans bushings
Lift from bell housing with floor jack.
Unbolt oil pan.
Unbolt oil pickup.
Slide Pan out.
I even did this with my m30 the other day.
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You didn't need to unbolt the oil pump? My oil pan is leaking, and I thought I had it fixed when I found a bunch of loose bolts. Turns out it's still leaking so it's time for a gasket. My weekends are shot for the duration of nice weather around here, so if someone could tell me this is a 2-3 hour evening job, that would be awesome :)-------------------------------------------------
1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver
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I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!Comment
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Initially I left the oil pump in the oil pan, since this was my first time removing the pan I went slow and followed what other people had done. If I had to do it again, I could do it in 5 hours with no problems. I replaced lots of different seals, bolts, gromments, mounts etc. Its really not that big a job if your organized.
Thanks BarryComment
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earnil, you need to unbolt the oil pump. It's in my post.
I think it's 3 or 4 bolts.Comment
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If I was to do this job again and had jacked the engine up a little bit so I didn't have to mess with the pump I could easily have it done in less than two hours.
If you got a light you don't have to worry about your short weekends, you may lose some sleep though.Comment
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