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    Another cooling system Q

    Another edit for my hunt for a normal/consistent engine tempt. I replaced the thermostat with one from autozone, I'm thinking they gave me the wrong temperature because the needle tends to be up past the halfmark. Usually ends up near the 3/4 mark. Seems a bit warmer than it should be. Should I just get a thermostat again? I think they said this one was 180 F which seems awfully high to me… But anyway. Anything else I should check? And yes I bled the shit out of it. Gracias :D
    Last edited by London; 09-23-2011, 05:30 PM.

    #2
    Does this happen with A/C in use? If so does the aux fan work?

    If this occurs when A/C isn't being used my suspects would be air in the cooling system, a bad thermostat, or a clogged radiator.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      Originally posted by London View Post
      A while ago I asked for help where my car ('86 es) would start to heat up if I was idling or stuck still for a bit. I was told the fan clutch was probably dead so I did the newspaper test when the car was hot and it sure seemed like the clutch was on it's way out so I replaced it with a brand new on from Blunttech.com... Well I'm still having problems with the car heating up quickly when I'm not moving. Like approaching the red. Thankfully I get moving again before it gets there but still. I'd like this sorted out. Thanks in advanced! :D
      Is your AUX fan kicking on? How long ago was the thermostat looked at/replaced? How much grime is in the fins of the radiator? Flushed recently? Coolant temp sensor been checked?


      Project log -- DIRTY 30

      2.7i * Megasquirt tuned * E85 powered

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        #4
        Also never over look the possibility of air being in the system. If its ever been flushed or been ran low that could be it.

        1987 Alpinweiß 325is

        Like the PNW E30 Local Crew Facebook page

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          #5
          if you haven't done a cooling overhaul.. i would do one quick... thermostat, hoses, flush, etc... it will help a lawt... i had the same issue... replaced the fan clutch and turned out if was the thermostat...

          good luck
          sigpic

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            #6
            Did you try the newspaper test on the NEW fan clutch?

            Please report the difference you detected.

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              #7
              i believe he said he did, and it still had the issue...
              sigpic

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                #8
                I don't see that.

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                  #9
                  One way you can check to see if the radiator is pluged is with a laser pyrometer. Look for really cold spots and hots spots.
                  The best way to check for air is to run the car and simple open the bleed screw and let it burp for a minuet.
                  sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
                  The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by dogsbark26 View Post
                    I don't see that.
                    haha, i'm an idiot... you are right, he did it on the old...don't mind me.. just slow right now.. heheh proceed
                    sigpic

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                      #11
                      New clutch works fine. I'm thinking thermostat went out. How big of a process is it to put a new one in? I guess I probably should have done that when I did the timing belt but I totally spaced on that one

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by London View Post
                        New clutch works fine. I'm thinking thermostat went out. How big of a process is it to put a new one in? I guess I probably should have done that when I did the timing belt but I totally spaced on that one
                        30 minute job max.


                        Project log -- DIRTY 30

                        2.7i * Megasquirt tuned * E85 powered

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Cronopoulos View Post
                          30 minute job max.
                          To the Bentley! (Batman music plays)

                          Does it matter which one I get? 71° 75° or 80°? I honestly dont know what the difference is.

                          And also, no to the AC on. It doesnt work anyway. And I've already flushed the system and bled it back when I did the timing belt.
                          Last edited by London; 09-19-2011, 11:14 PM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Just get the OEM temperature. You can pick one up at your local auto parts store too if you don't want to order it online.

                            Just make sure you properly bleed the cooling system afterward.
                            BimmerHeads
                            Classic BMW Specialists
                            Santa Clarita, CA

                            www.BimmerHeads.com

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by London View Post
                              To the Bentley! (Batman music plays)

                              Does it matter which one I get? 71° 75° or 80°? I honestly dont know what the difference is.

                              And also, no to the AC on. It doesnt work anyway. And I've already flushed the system and bled it back when I did the timing belt.
                              Sometimes air gets trapped in the lower rad hose. That's why I suggested air. You sometimes have to literally squeeze the hose as your bleeding it. The thermostat is a good place to start though

                              1987 Alpinweiß 325is

                              Like the PNW E30 Local Crew Facebook page

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