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    Check Engine Light???

    Hey all,

    I have spent hours and hours trying to figure this little quirk out but the search function has failed me.

    I have had hard starting since I got the car. I had unknown mileage on the ignition and fuel system so I started with (what most consider) a tune-up. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor. I've also replaced the FPR and have a set of remanned injectors at the ready.

    In order to get the car to start consistently (cold) I have to open the throttle a bit. It will crank several times, act as if it has fired, choke a second and then actually fire.

    The vast majority of the time the car will <crank, crank, fire> without opening the throttle if I have just shut the car off (normal op temp). EXCEPT under one condition. When the "CHECK ENGINE" light does not illuminate on the dash when I key to the 2nd position, it doesn't matter how far the throttle is open it will just crank and act as if it will fire and then crank forever. I will key it off and on a bunch of times and the light will still be off. Then for no apparent reason the light will come on and I can do my trick. It seems as though when that light is off the engine is starved for fuel.

    When it is on, the throttle trick works. I am new to BMW's and haven't had the time to give the Bentley a full run through.

    Any ideas/Suggestions?

    Thanks so much in advance!

    #2
    I would try to swap out the DME for a known good one

    edit: is this a 325e or i? or 318i early or late model?
    sigpic
    Originally posted by e30hijinks
    I move faster than "the speed of light." I'm always connected to my Blackberry and am ready to purchase at a moment's notice. I do not play games

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      #3
      My bad. 1989 325i, bone stock m20.

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        #4
        main relay? the CEL is activated by the ECU, and if the ECU isn't getting power, the CEL won't light up either.
        Build thread

        Bimmerlabs

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          #5
          I agree with nando on the CEL light and no starting - main relay. My guess is you still have original main relay - replace it. Once you get your "no CEL no start issue" working, you could address fuel filter and verify decent fuel pump operation.
          86 325e chumpracer, 87 325e RallyXer, 12 Boss 302LS, 97 Miata

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            #6
            Yall were right... it was the original relay manufactured in 1987. Fresh Bosch relay went in and there is a vast difference. 9 out of 10 startups even dead cold go smoothly. There have been a couple that had a hiccup and then fired. It still idles a little stranged and smells like its running rich...which brings me to my next point...

            Now that I have good power to my DME I think it is actually storing codes. I did the stomp test weekly since I got the car 2 months ago and always got no codes back. Today while driving, the CEL flashed and went away so I stomped when I got to work and it gave me the 1221 - Bad O2 sensor/connection. I'm guessing this is also an original part and with 188k on the clock I should probably look into getting a new one. I bet replacing that will help with the erratic idle and the rich condition when the engine is warm? Thoughts?

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