I have a b25 engine and am looking to turn it into either a 2.8 or 2.9. I have been reading a lot of threads about this subject but cant seem to find what I looking for. I want to keep the b25 as the base of the build and dont really seem the point in putting a e bottom on it. I dont want to turbo and I have the 4.10 lsd. Im just looking to add some more power(180-190whp) without completely breaking my wallet. I have been looking at the kits on Ireland engineering for the 2.9 has anyone used this? If so how did it work for you? thanks
m20b25
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To achieve what you are talking about you will need a different crank, rods, pistons, at the minimum. The block may need boring and the head almost certainly will need a full rebuild and probably a new cam. On top of all of that you'll need a chip for the DME that matches the build.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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a $2k turbo setup is going to use mostly junkyard/ebay stuff. you can do it that cheap, but will it be reliable? and you're talking about boosting a stock, unopened engine. How long will it last? a $2k N/A motor is going to be more reliable as a DD. plus, $2k barely covers parts cost. You have any idea how much dyno time costs? dyno tuning is always important, but it's critical on a turbo car.
a more realistic turbo build (that will last a long time at 300hp) would easily cost double that. including rebuilding the motor. stock 200,000 mile rings aren't going to like 15psi for very long..
for N/A, there are two viable paths IMO. the budget build using stock parts, and building a 3.1 with an 89.6mm crank and custom 86mm pistons (once you go with custom pistons, there's no reason to build anything less than a 3.1 - all the cranks cost about the same). there's tons of info about this.
another, much cheaper option, is to use an 84mm crank from an M52B28, 130mm eta rods, and short skirt M20B25 pistons. you'll likely need to clearance the pistons and intermediate shaft to clear the crank (the 84mm crank has large diameter counter weights), or turn down the crank so it fits directly. you'll still want to rebuild the head, and use something other than a stock cam if you want it to be worthwhile. and you'll still want to be able to tune it. But, a motor built like this (correctly) will make good power and last as long as a stock engine. there's alsoa large # of threads about this kind of build.
a last option would be to simply slap on an 885 head onto an eta block. this option is best if you already had an eta motor and wanted to do a really cheap upgrade ($500 or so). But if you want 200bhp+, you'll want to look elsewhere.Last edited by nando; 11-28-2011, 08:30 AM.Comment
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i am in australia and have a friend who has purchased the 2.9 litre stroker kit fro ireland engineering he highly recommneded them and has no problems with the product and also said they had great advice and service, i will personally be using them throughout my build.
if u dont wan to run around finding the perfect mix and match of parts just go ie.Comment
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i am in australia and have a friend who has purchased the 2.9 litre stroker kit fro ireland engineering he highly recommneded them and has no problems with the product and also said they had great advice and service, i will personally be using them throughout my build.
if u dont wan to run around finding the perfect mix and match of parts just go ie.
What CAM, TB, and injectors did he use?sigpicComment
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it was an alpina manifold and tb unsure on injectors he is currently running war chip and maf and brags constanlty about the gains and simplicity of it. also unsure on his cam sounds lumpy as though somewthing like 304 my guess would be as it purely a track car. i have a link to his build thread ill try to find it for youComment


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