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    #31
    Old injectors back in... car just cranks and no cylinders fire. I am getting fuel... I tested the injector harness and it has continuity between each + & - for each injector.

    Maybe my plugs are fouled? I need to go check that. Cylinder #1 I pulled and it is sparking.

    Now the stomp test is reading CTS problem. The ohm reading on it is 4500 ohms... which seems in spec.

    CODE 1223

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      #32
      Is it possible that you mixed up the plugs for the CTS and the temperature gauge sensor?

      Comment


        #33
        Yes, but Im pretty sure I didn't.

        The problem is that the car just flat turns over but no cylinders fire. So yeah I gotta figure this out

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          #34
          "On models with 6-cylinder engine, there should battery
          voltage between the red /white wire and ground when the
          ignition is on. If no faults are found, check for contin uity between
          the connector's ground wire (brown wire with colored
          stripe) and the control unit. If no wiring faults can be found, the
          control unit may be faulty. See 5.4 Electrical Tests (L-Jetronic)
          or 6.4 Electrical Tests (Motronic) for control unit terminal
          identification and· additional electrical tests."

          That is the injector electrical test, but I am not understanding it

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            #35
            Well considering I have jumped my 4 time sin the past week (from cranking so much) I now feel like a total idiot. And I am willing to bet the DME has taken a hit.

            And that my battery is worse now too.

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              #36
              you only need 3 things to have the car fire. air, fuel and a spark. so you are missing one or more. if you ground a spark plug and see a spark then if prob means that you aren't getting fuel.

              i would first test from the ECU that the injectors work. in the bentley there is a test for the injectors to ground them and they will "click" meaning they are opening. They spray in sets of 3, so make sure you are hearing the click for them.

              if you are then I would check the CPS and if that checks out then perhaps the ECU needs to be replaced.

              that all being said. when you changed the injectors out and back in you obviously lost all the fuel pressure. with the car in the "on" position before you crank, bridge the fuel relay to turn on the fuel pump. let it run for 30 seconds or more for the pressure to build up, you might even hear a whooshing sound which would be the fuel pushing the extra air in the lines.

              try all that then let me know
              '84 325e - "Elizabeth"
              '87 325e (SHELL) - "Sleeping Beauty" - COMPLETE PROJECT PART-OUT - S54, 5-LUG, and MORE

              sigpic

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                #37
                Thank you so much man.

                The test in the bentley I copied and pasted in above, but I dont understand it. Can anybody please tell me how to the test?

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                  #38
                  yea i read it and didnt understand it either. i dont know what section that is from so I dont know what red and white wire is

                  this is the test i was talking about:
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by nebulous123; 12-12-2011, 08:56 PM.
                  '84 325e - "Elizabeth"
                  '87 325e (SHELL) - "Sleeping Beauty" - COMPLETE PROJECT PART-OUT - S54, 5-LUG, and MORE

                  sigpic

                  Comment


                    #39
                    So you chopped the fuel harness, and then spliced it? Right? And now you're not getting fuel?
                    Last edited by george graves; 12-12-2011, 09:11 PM.
                    Originally posted by Matt-B
                    hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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                      #40
                      I'm with George. I still think something is amiss when you rewired the C171 (191?) plug.

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                        #41
                        Well the car was running super smooth the other day... so I am fairly certain my splices are still solid. I have a feeling that since I jumped the car so many times being stupid that I likely screwed up the DME

                        'All my plugs are sparking on the first plug wire... though there is one big spark and small ones in between. The small ones you cant see during the daylight though... is this normal?

                        So I likely need to swap in a known good DME... argh

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Or took a pair of vice grips to the conector -that half way connected now.

                          I think it's awesome you dove in head first to fixing your car....but you need to slow down and not be so ADD about things. Not meant as in insult....
                          Originally posted by Matt-B
                          hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

                          Comment


                            #43
                            I'd like to bring something up here...

                            Just because you "spliced" the wire does not mean it's correct. The wires need to have a correct resistance, and if you did not use the same gauge and material wire, you could be off. If you did a true "splice" it's likely you ruined the resistance there. You can solder it and be a lot better off.

                            Although, it seems unlikely, it's possible. I've seen stranger things.
                            1987 Delphin 325e Sedan - Natalie
                            1990 325i 24v
                            1997 Chevrolet K1500 Crew Cab 4x4 - The Centurion

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                              #44
                              Well yes you are right Andrewm! However... it would not be much... I used bigger wire even (18 gauge)... because 20 gauge is not available in stores so much... so it likely equaled out.

                              Im test spark in depth tonight

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by andrewm View Post
                                I'd like to bring something up here...

                                Just because you "spliced" the wire does not mean it's correct. The wires need to have a correct resistance, and if you did not use the same gauge and material wire, you could be off. If you did a true "splice" it's likely you ruined the resistance there. You can solder it and be a lot better off.

                                Although, it seems unlikely, it's possible. I've seen stranger things.
                                You have zero clue about what you are talking about. No, really. I don't mean to be an ass....but you are talking out of your butt.

                                Hi. My name is George. I design electronics.
                                Originally posted by Matt-B
                                hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

                                Comment

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