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    Stumped - No Start

    Okay here is my problem, after putting the intake manifold and everything back on I goto start the car and it runs fine. I dont have the throttle cables hooked up yet but when moving the throttle body with my hand it revved fine. Very smooth. This is with my new but used m50 17.5lb/hour injectors I rebuilt the injectors with a rebuild kit thing and they all read the same ohms.

    I didn't drive it, but let it run for Id guess 15 minutes or so. The ecu was making it idle really high at around 2000rpm in park but in Drive it idled only slightly high at 1000.

    So I come out the next day to start it and let it idle around back so I can hook the throttle up. It starts, then sputters down immediately and dies. I crank it again and it stays running, but the idle dipped to 500 sometimes. I am letting it idle up a slight hill to get behind my house and it cant make it... the idle is too low. SO I cut the engine and push to in front of my house again. I din't mess with it anymore.

    I came to the conclusion that the ECU was really confused and thus it wouldn't start.. because I had not driven it around with the new injectors only let it idle. That night I unplugged the battery so the ECU would reset

    So today I get home and plug battery back in an go to crank it. It cranks fine and almost "catches" but wont start. I can smell a STRONG smell of fuel out the tail pipe, so I know I am getting fuel fine.

    I havn't checked for spark yet, but the multimeter read the battery as having 12.3 volts or so... so I jump started it. Still almost "catches" but wont start.

    I know I need to check for spark, but it is weird because it started the other day and barely could run and then after killing the ignition now it wont start at all!

    Im going to go pull a plug here in a few minutes but try one last time before I do that... the engine might be flooded? I hope the plug can ground to my new powdercoated valve cover :)

    #2
    by chance did you disturb any vacuum lines? make sure all are secure and not leaking.
    sigpic

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      #3
      I have all of them secure. Although when it was running I did hear a vac leak I think. It was a hisssss noise. But I wasnt sure if it was coming from the hole si drilled in the bottom fo my airbox or what... I replaced ALL of the vacuum lines and used all new hose clamps... but the breather that comes from the valve cover I didn't replace

      Also I should note. THe car has coolant but it isnt maxed out, I need to add more. The check engine light is on... but I cant do a stimp test because the throttle cable isnt hooked up... The check light for the motor oil is on, but the dipstick reads plenty... although it looks like a little water might be in it (I forgot to plug the bitch tube hole)

      I am certain its a fuel issue because yesterday the engine bogged down... def. not a spark thing

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        #4
        possible that your hose from the valve cover to the throttle bottle may be leaking or your fuel pump may be on it's way out.

        vacuum leak doesn't occur from the bottom of the air box. You just create more air to go into the throttle body. low coolant doesn't affect whether car starts or not.

        tube hole? are you talking about the tube running from the bottom of the intake to the block? if you didn't put that back in...that is most probably your problem.
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          #5
          Originally posted by Ceeker View Post
          possible that your hose from the valve cover to the throttle bottle may be leaking or your fuel pump may be on it's way out.

          vacuum leak doesn't occur from the bottom of the air box. You just create more air to go into the throttle body. low coolant doesn't affect whether car starts or not.

          tube hole? are you talking about the tube running from the bottom of the intake to the block? if you didn't put that back in...that is most probably your problem.
          I put it back in... but when I pulled it I didn't plug the hole for a week atleast until I reinstalled it... so yeah my mistake.

          Still stumped on this... fuel pump may be the problem. http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/3-s...t-64752-2.html

          That thread is a similar problem and he said if he bangs on the pump it will work :(

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            #6
            you should be able to hear the pump...
            '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
            NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
            Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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              #7
              My pump has always been quiet, though the car runs fine

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                #8
                Originally posted by 5Toes View Post
                I put it back in... but when I pulled it I didn't plug the hole for a week atleast until I reinstalled it... so yeah my mistake.

                Still stumped on this... fuel pump may be the problem. http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/3-s...t-64752-2.html

                That thread is a similar problem and he said if he bangs on the pump it will work :(
                if you reinstalled it regardless of whether you ran the car or for how long it was out that wouldn't be the case then. Unless your o-rings are bad and the tube isn't fully seated.
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                  #9
                  Okay pulled back seat and still cant hear the pump... but when cranking I can hear it.

                  Fuck... I am so mad right about now

                  Im not saying the bitch tube transfer tube thing is the problem... I know its not.

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                    #10
                    did you use a scewdriver and bang on the pump while cranking?

                    can you verify you have enough gas in the tank?
                    AWD > RWD

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                      #11
                      check your fuses; check your main relay.
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                        #12
                        Update: I got spark for sure... cylinder #1 I could see it from sitting in the driver's seat!

                        Kershaw, the fuel pump while cranking can be heard... and I tried banging on it but not directly on the top with the screwdriver.

                        I am checking my fuses next. How can the main relay keep the engine from starting when I have fuel and spark though? Or is that impossible? George Graves might come over soon and I am going to swap relays

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                          #13
                          Cylinders 1-4 have spark... well the spark plugs work atleast. I ahd to test them all on the same plug wire cause nobody in my family can help me and that is the only wire that will hold itself to a grounding point

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                            #14
                            No can do my friend. I'm meeting someone for dinner tonight. Can't get sucked into the e30/5toes vortex. Lol.

                            But, you can always jumper the relay. It's best if you use some wire, with a fuse in the middle (like a 15-20 amp) - that way if you mess up, you just blow a fuse. But read the diagram, and I bet it will show you how you can jumper it.

                            If not, I might have an extra laying around, but it's in a box, in a pile of boxes since I moved. Sorry.
                            Originally posted by Matt-B
                            hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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                              #15
                              Its okay George... I searched the Bentley and cant find anything on jumping the MAIN relay. Google/R3V search isnt helping either :(

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