Ok, that definately makes sense now. I was reading it as the area from tdc to bdc, but since the rods were shorter it would be the same. Thanks
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2.8l stroker for future turbo setup q's
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Originally posted by MR 325 View PostI'm most definitely with you. The parts can be found very cheaply to build this engine. Find a good machine shop to do the mods to crank and pistons and you'll have yourself a great engine. My good friend (Myster-e on here) built this engine and did 185whp with his with potential for more with a bit more tuning time and intake changes. This is a NA engine of course.
If you want to keep it super cheap, just to the Eta bottom end with a fresh rebuild and ARP hardware. This along with a nicely built 885 head and boost will produce nice power.-Alex
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Originally posted by acolella76 View PostI am building a new bottom end for boost as well, and while I am buying all the parts I just said screw it and have a M52 crank and short skirt "i" pistons lined up for onle $110. Thats so damn cheap I couldn't stay away. BTW, what cam does myster-e have?
His is a custom grind 280 cam.
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Originally posted by devon.818 View Post2k into your bottom end?
thats a lot for idk what!
lower compression=good for boost, you want boost, than run eta block with i head, gives 8.3.1 compression, boost to 13lbs with cometic/mls headgasket, run some arp head studs, boom 270hp
you are welcome1988 E30 335i - 1987 E30 327i - 1987 E30 327iS Pickup - 1973 2002 Project
Visit www.BimmerHeads.com for all of your 12 valve needs!
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Originally posted by MR 325 View PostYou'll still need to bob the crank though, but that's an amazing price on the parts.
His is a custom grind 280 cam.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=221655
Originally posted by Myster-e View PostActually, an eta with an I head drops the compression ratio to 7.9:1-Alex
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So an eta based build would require a lot of boost to be potentional? Theoretically, I would like to pay 4k for the engine and setup.. anymore I cannot offord I am going to be getting my own place. I just want the feel and a little more of a punch in my m20.Last edited by Kozworth; 12-24-2011, 09:03 AM.
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No, it doesn't NEED lot of boost. I am running mine N/A right now and it's fine, you can't really tell there is a difference in compression. The lower compression just means you COULD push a lot of boost into there if you so chose. Higher CR = lower boost level before your motor starts to knock/detonate, lower CR is the opposite.-Alex
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To answer your original question, the 86mm overbore is not recommended for turbo applications. the thinner sidewall will be more prone to HG issues and you could possibly crack the cylinder walls with a high boost application. I highly recommend staying with the 84mm bore. Since you are boosting, it's really not as necessary to worry about displacement, compression is FAR more important.
Here's the list I have on my 2.7i boost build:
I'm going a bit more over board on my boost setup so take that with a grain of salt. For $2000 I'm completely rebuilding my engine which includes $750 on all new seals, gaskets, bearings, bolts, etc, etc.
$500 on Maxsil Seta Pistons
I'm spending about $400-500 for a machine shop to chem tank, clean, and hone my block. Oring the block for a stock HG, balance crank, and a full installation of my bottom end. (It's easier for them to put it all together for me.)
I have another $250 or so allotted for miscellaneous expenses. So here's My list:
Maxsil Seta Pistons
2.7 eta crank
130mm eta rods
Stock Head Gasket
885 "i" head (brand new rebuild from one of my donor engines!!!)
"i" Intake manifold
173 ECU.
The compression ration will be 8.5:1 which is perfect for a higher boost. I'm aiming for 350-400whp.
You should PM FrozenSolid about his build. He's running MS on a stock HG outputting 440whp!!
For boost I'm running an expensive system:
TCD Stage 2 (or 3) Turbo
TCD Bottom mount turbo manifold
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Haltech SA Management system
Turbosmart eBoost electronic boost control
35# injectors
GM Coil Packs (subject to change)
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