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a good old bucking

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    #1

    a good old bucking

    I have a 1990 325i completely stock (AKA not my sig), it is the winter car hence stock. This winter the car started out running fine however starting earlier this week I have been running into a fairly serious issue. I will paint the picture,

    cruising down the road all seems normal then randomly while under slight or heavy load the car will start bucking. Sometimes it is very slight while other times it will make your head smash off the steering wheel. While it is bucking, if you push the clutch in and attempt to rev it up it will usually not go past 3000 RPM. This tends to happen more at higher rpms like highway driving, but it does happen around town.

    To answer the usual "Did you fuck with something?" No, I have not done anything to the car besides put gas in it and check the tire pressures for the past 3 weeks.

    Any help appreciated,

    Car addict
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    #2
    Does being on a tilt change anything?

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      #3
      Not really it appears to happen more often when turning right for a slight bend but really it is not that common. And I have over Half a tank of gas fwiw.
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        #4
        When the car is in gear and moving and bucks does the tach needle drive towards zero? If it does, the DME is loosing timing data from the engine or loosing power. A failing CPS, bad main relay, bad fusible link, or loose DME ground are possibilities.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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          #5
          The tach starts to fall then towards zero then catches then attempts to rev up again.

          If that helps
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            #6
            Yep, that helps. The most likely suspect is the CPS. Especially if the wire chase that protects the CPS cable where it runs behind the water pump pulley is broken or missing. Get a new CPS, new wire chase, and the clips for the wire chase. It would also, on general principles, be a good idea to replace the main and fuel pump relays with new parts, make sure the DME ground (on the right front strut tower) is good, and check for a high resistance (bad fusible link) in the small cable attached to the battery positive post.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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              #7
              Awesome I will order all those parts and test what you suggested, I will report back tonight. Thank you
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                #8
                UPDATE: only 4 days late

                Jlevie you are my new best friend she runs like a champ again after replacing CPS, main relay, fuel pump relay, and cleaning ecu ground. Not sure which caused the issue but doesnt really matter she is good to go. Thanks
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