1986/8 E30 Issues

[HarukoE30]

Car: 1986 BMW E30 325
Mod(s) : Engine swap with 1988 325i w/ 1988 5-speed trans swap.

Milage: 134K

Issue(s):

POS + & NEG - gauges were placed on the battery opposite of their proper sides. Engine Bay had smoke, mainly from Alteranator side/area. Car still turned on for first startup since engine swap. Engine had a choking like issues where if gas wasn't given, the car would die.

That was last nights issue, now today's is that my car won't turn over at all. Could my roommate's ill-advised decision to put the battery gauges on the wrong end of the battery have anything to do with this, because the car started last night and now it doesn't.

Thanks

[paperplane94]

whats a battery gauge? did you mean jumper cables.

anyways, read this so you can perform some tests:

THE DEFINITIVE “NO START” trouble-shoot instructions - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum
^ i know its for e34's but its a start.

You said it may not be getting fuel. Perhaps the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay shorted out after the event. Get a fuel pressure gauge in there, or at least check for the presence or fuel.

Then, you need to confirm spark. Pull out a plug and attach it to the wire and ground the plug. Have someone start while you watch for spark.

After that, I need more details...what happens when you step on the gas? try starter fluid? anything else worth mentioning?

[HarukoE30]

whats a battery gauge? did you mean jumper cables.

anyways, read this so you can perform some tests:

THE DEFINITIVE “NO START” trouble-shoot instructions - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum
^ i know its for e34's but its a start.

You said it may not be getting fuel. Perhaps the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay shorted out after the event. Get a fuel pressure gauge in there, or at least check for the presence or fuel.

Then, you need to confirm spark. Pull out a plug and attach it to the wire and ground the plug. Have someone start while you watch for spark.

After that, I need more details...what happens when you step on the gas? try starter fluid? anything else worth mentioning?

Basically the battery cables that attach to the battery.

Regarding the fuel issue, some R3v guys that came over yesterday felt maybe we put the fuel lines on the FPR wrong, which was causes the car to choke when it was running. I know it's not fuel, because the pump primes (hear it) & when switching lines, gas is coming out.

The car basically just makes that click noise when I got from Power ~ Start on the ignition. The issue seems to be spark, which would turn the car over.

I know a buddy said to check the voltage at the starter, should be around 12V -13.5v so I'll start there and let you know.

The smoke was coming from the Alternator though before the car start. Hope I didn't fry my DME in the process either.


Edit: Nonetheless I will check the fuel relay as well, but I know I heard the pump priming.

[paperplane94]

Wait just a minute....

The engine is not turning over? Then your battery is shot.

[Keith M]

The +/- wires on the alternator were reversed.
Check voltage at battery then starter. I think the alt is toasted but I have a spare if you need it. Call or text me with any questions.

[jlevie]

If I'm reading this right, you "smoked" the alternator by hooking up the battery backwards. Then the next day all you get is a click from the starter. The battery is probably discharged as a result of the damage to the alternator. Disconnect the alternator, charge up the battery, and see if the engine will crank them. If you are really lucky nothing else was damaged as a result of hooking up the battery backwards, but odds aren't in your favor.

A fuel system problem (check the rail fuel pressure & make sure all injectors fire with a noid light) or intake leaks are the most likely causes of the engine wanting to die as you open the throttle.

[paperplane94]

^yup, last time I did that was while trying to jump the car. Fried the battery to the point where all the fluid vented out.


I would pull out the battery and alternator and have them tested at your friendly local auto parts store and replace as necessary. Come back and report if there is still a problem.

[HarukoE30]

Wait just a minute....

The engine is not turning over? Then your battery is shot.

Yeah pretty sure at this point the battery is a dud since the ends were on the opposite sides when hooked together.

If I'm reading this right, you "smoked" the alternator by hooking up the battery backwards. Then the next day all you get is a click from the starter. The battery is probably discharged as a result of the damage to the alternator. Disconnect the alternator, charge up the battery, and see if the engine will crank them. If you are really lucky nothing else was damaged as a result of hooking up the battery backwards, but odds aren't in your favor.

A fuel system problem (check the rail fuel pressure & make sure all injectors fire with a noid light) or intake leaks are the most likely causes of the engine wanting to die as you open the throttle.

Yup, Alternator is toast for sure. I will charge the battery & see if I can get the car to crank over. My question is, because of this incidient, what other "Possible" parts could be damaged with something like this?

^yup, last time I did that was while trying to jump the car. Fried the battery to the point where all the fluid vented out.


I would pull out the battery and alternator and have them tested at your friendly local auto parts store and replace as necessary. Come back and report if there is still a problem.

Thanks Paper, the Alternator is gone, I can still smell it yesterday when I was trying to get the car to start. All I can do now is look into the battery and go from there.

The +/- wires on the alternator were reversed.
Check voltage at battery then starter. I think the alt is toasted but I have a spare if you need it. Call or text me with any questions.

I'll have an answer if I'll be coming up Wednesday, by 9pm. Thanks Keith


Edit:

Also, would the 1986 325 starter work in a 1988 325i engine? Need to know this as well for an Alternator as well. Thanks

[jlevie]

Yup, Alternator is toast for sure. I will charge the battery & see if I can get the car to crank over. My question is, because of this incidient, what other "Possible" parts could be damaged with something like this?

The DME, ABS, cruise control, central locking, radio, wiper control. I/E., anything with electronics in it.

Also, would the 1986 325 starter work in a 1988 325i engine? Need to know this as well for an Alternator as well. Thanks

I believe so.

[TobyB]

Also, would the 1986 325 starter work in a 1988 325i engine?

+1 2/86 starter works on 9/90, with identical part numbers.

Don't freak yet- a lot of the electronics have diodes built in for just this occasion...

...usually.

t

[HarukoE30]

The starter checked out fine at Autozone, but we both thought in this situation the test wasn't under load. Than again, the car did start after the terminals were connected wrong at the battery. We're switching out the Alternator today, have an extra one & maybe not having the alternator would mean the circuit isn't closing somehow?

THe 1986 325e starter is quite literally bigger than the 88 starter & the 88 starter has two bolt ends, whereas the 86 doesn't so when connecting the + & - ends on the starter, what do I do with the two little round ends on the harness part that would normally connect to the starter?


edit:
battery was tighten down as well to the terminals, multi-meter stated 12.6v
Starter showed 12v+ but dropped to 11v something when the ignition key was turned to the on position.

Thinking maybe, take out alternator, pout starter in, see if car starts with same battery, if not try another battery, than probably conclude starter. This is a starter issue though, it's making the click noise like any other starter would trying to kick over.

[jlevie]

battery was tighten down as well to the terminals, multi-meter stated 12.6v
Starter showed 12v+ but dropped to 11v something when the ignition key was turned to the on position.

That could mean that the battery is bad. Take it to an auto parts house and have it tested.

Thinking maybe, take out alternator, pout starter in, see if car starts with same battery, if not try another battery, than probably conclude starter. This is a starter issue though, it's making the click noise like any other starter would trying to kick over.

Before you mess with the starter, solve the problem that is causing the system voltage to go down to 11v when the ignition is turned on.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Replace the battery and check your fuses. No need to condemn the alternator just yet. You have to get the car running before you know if the alternator is bad.

Also, check your grounds. They are possibly one of the most overlook culprits but will do the strangest things.

[HarukoE30]

Replace the battery and check your fuses. No need to condemn the alternator just yet. You have to get the car running before you know if the alternator is bad.

Also, check your grounds. They are possibly one of the most overlook culprits but will do the strangest things.

Which fuses would I be looking at?

There is a ground wire that starts at the oil pan, but just runs out. It's about 7inches long.
The starter tested good at Autozone & the battery that was used in the E30 incident, started up another car.
Are there any regulators I should check or relays?

It's just hard to imagine the car starts one night, than doesn't the next & nothing changed, besides what occurred before the car even starting.

edit:

Also I need to inform you guys that I did do a Auto - 5-speed swap into this car. I had to do some wiring & never thought about it, but could some wiring have gotten loose by chance that would disrupt this?

edit x 2: Could the Neutral Safety Switch have anything to do with this? Reading around google searches, people talk about the starter clicking, but the car won't turn over. I do have the 5-speed in neutral currently as well.

[HarukoE30]

I check the fuses, especially fuse #10 & all fuses were intact.

I did however notice Ground Wire G103 - On right front shock tower (2.5i engine only) / On left side of engine block, above starter (2.7e engine only) wasn't connected. The old Ground was cut when the engine was taken from the previous car so I un-bolted the old, attached the one that connects to my body ~ to the top of the oil pan.

The biggest discovery was at the Battery Junction Block. I went to check the cables just to make sure they were attached nice & tight & the + power wire that runs from the block to the starter was loose. I was able to remove it from the block with ease.

I tried to tighten it down, but noticed the more I tighten down, the more the terminal gauge would slide off. After looking at everything I notice oil was on the inside, which I'm not sure how it got there, but nonetheless I took a shop rag and clean it thoroughly.

I'll see if I can get it to attach nice & tight, than re-attach the starter & take voltage levels from the on position in the ignition at the starter & battery & report my findings later this afternoon.