Oil Pan Gasket: Sealant(which) or Not

[gath]

I have done two gasket changes and they didn't last for long without leaking. Both 'ave done using a small dab sealants, the 1st I used Regular HT RTV red and the 2nd another silicone sealant. In both cases I applied very little as directed and torqued the bolts to spec (not over torquing them). I've read in different forums that say to use or not to use sealants but no concrete answer, so what are you using coz am changing the oil pan gasket again. BTW am using a cork/rubber gasket.

[reelizmpro]

This is typical of cork gaskets. Many have had good luck with just a sealant by itself. The one I used is yamabond 4 but it goes by different names like hondabond, toyotabond, etc. This stuff stays together and stays flexible.

[immajackuup]

This is typical of cork gaskets. Many have had good luck with just a sealant by itself. The one I used is yamabond 4 but it goes by different names like hondabond, toyotabond, etc. This stuff stays together and stays flexible.

x2
hondabond ftw

[e46s54dr]

+2 on Hondabond... Best sealant. Period.

[blueapplesoda]

I use "The Right Stuff" permatex grey in all the (turbo) engines I build. The JDM stuff is nice too, we used some nissan sealant before when we were building ka's and sr's, but I got a deal on the permatex stuff which is why its in the shop now. Crankcase pressure becomes a bit more apparent when blown; Paper and cork doesn't cut it. It's either metal, composite, or silicone. Clean both surfaces very well, and follow the directions.

I also know there is a nightmare of a pan gasket i believe to be made by fel-pro. It's red, and It works great as a gasket when you don't want the customers car to come back for an oilpan leak, but don't plan on pulling it off after putting miles on it. It puts up a goddamned fight and you are left to scrape the shit off the mating surfaces for hours. It usually sticks to the oil pan too.

Just stick to the silicone.

[AndrewBird]

I use this stuff on everything:


Fuel/oil resistant, stays flexible, but not squishy like silicone products. You put it on thin on both the pan/block and the gasket, let it tack, then stick them together, like you would with contact cement. I've literally torn the gasket in half pulling things apart, meaning half the gasket material stuck to one side, the other half on the other side.

It does smell pretty rank though. lol

[blueapplesoda]

yeah, cheap rtv crap sucks balls, steer clear of that shit. The good stuff when cured usually looks/feels like roofing sealant, opaque with a rubber like texture, flexible, yet strong.

[!kid]

I use Nissan sealant. The new VQ engines are held together with that stuff. Timing cover, oil pan etc are sealed using it with no gasket.

[gath]

Thnx guys, I'll try the honda/yamabond and hope it works n holds. Dang! I hate it when you've put the pan back together to your best, goes for a month or two and you are all happy that the job was top notch, then one morning you notice an oil spot on the floor as you back out.. you stop and walk back hoping that it's either ATF, coolant or water but from the look of it you surely know what it is, crank case oil.. urghh!!!

[immajackuup]

do not small dab just paste that sucker on when using honda bond. also honda bond is real easy to clean/scrape off comparing to rtv.

[gath]

R U 4 reals.. from experience or wat? http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=443962, http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2709150

All the threads 'ave read says don't put a lot coz once the gasket/sealant is compressed it will spread out into the inside oil pan chamber and then chunks might get into the oil pump which is not a good thing.. where do you get your info .. ?

[immajackuup]

experience,instead of putting small beads I put a small line of honda bond closer to the outer edge and around the bolt hole. Also I never have problem scraping honda bond off.

fuck honda-tech!!!

[e46s54dr]

The amount of sealant used is dependent on the width of the contact pad. Ideally, you only want a small and even amount of sealant seeping out when torqued down.

My method consist of;

1. Thoroughly cleaning the two mating surfaces and dry.
2. Apply an even bead all the way around with no breaks in the bead.
3. Mate the two pieces to each other and lightly tighten the nuts and bolts until you see the sealant start to squish out between the contact area.
4. Let it sit for a couple of hours.
5. Come back and torque to spec.
6. Let it fully cure over night before adding in the coolant or oil.

The curing time before finally tightening the nuts and bolts down allows the sealant to form a kind of gasket which will create a better seal when compressed.

[blocke]

I used hylomar where the pan and rearbmain seal cover meet. Expensive shit, but no leaks yet

[5Toes]

yamabond 4?