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m20b27 loss of enigne power....

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    m20b27 loss of enigne power....

    so i bought an 87 325es and it ran great the first day i got it, the car has sat for 7 years so i knew it needed some new parts. so i changed the oil spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil. well after doing this the car will not run right when i start it up it runs fine for like 5 min. then it just starts to break up and loose complete power whenever i give it any throttle. i thought maybe fueling so i replaced both pumps and filter. and nothing. i have a friend with another 325e and we swaped DME's, AFM's, TPS, and ICV's and yet again nothing. this car is driving me insane some one plz help me!!(ive searched the end of the internet and cant find a solution)

    #2
    fuel pressure regulator? clogged injectors? vacume leaks?
    sigpic

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      #3
      swaped fpr, cleaned injectors and even swaped from another car, and i cant find any vacume leaks...

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        #4
        can still runs like poo

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          #5
          coil
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            #6
            You need to search the Deep Web.

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              #7
              i just swaped the coil and nothing changed

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                #8
                I had this same issue for awhile. First check all of your electrical, COnnectors, wires, and components. I think my issue was with my TPS. Another big problem I had was with a high Idle, and to my surprise, That didn't go away until I cleared the faults from the DME.

                I believe my main problem was with the TPS sensor. It sounds like if you were to give it full throttle, it would respond, but it might dip down before it comes alive.

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                  #9
                  How do u clear the faults?

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Xmedina View Post
                    How do u clear the faults?
                    disconnect the battery for 10 mins. I also think the eta DME has a battery inside it. Someone correct me if im wrong..

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                      #11
                      well i just unplugged the DME for like 15 min and swaped with some one elses, its still runs the same....

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                        #12
                        One of the things i forgot to mention is i pulled injectors off an 88 528 (seta) at the junkyard and replaced mine with these....are these seta injectors diff than my stock eta injectors? They have yellow tops compared to my stock ones wich were green/grey color?

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                          #13
                          check the part #'s on realoem.com
                          sigpic

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                            #14
                            I highly doubt they r diff or are the source of my problem cuz the problem was there before i put them in

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Xmedina View Post
                              One of the things i forgot to mention is i pulled injectors off an 88 528 (seta) at the junkyard and replaced mine with these....are these seta injectors diff than my stock eta injectors? They have yellow tops compared to my stock ones wich were green/grey color?
                              Those are the wrong injectors. Put the originals (or ones from a 9/87 or earlier ETA) back in.

                              The problems that show up after the car has run for 5 minutes or so suggest that the cause is something that comes into play once the engine goes into closed loop operation or, this being an ETA, when the cold start system drops out. My first suspicion would be intake leaks.
                              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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