Been at it for longer than I'd like to admit, what's the trick? Getting pretty frustrated.
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Secrets to mating the trans and M20?
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If the engine is still in the car - I used two floor jacks so I could raise the tranny up and get it angled right and shoved it on pretty quick. It takes some frustrating wiggling but it should pop on. One big point is to make sure your clutch disk is aligned perfectly with the pilot bearing or it's never going to go on. It was 80% getting the jack height/angle right and 20% mating them together.
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Originally posted by codrum View PostIt takes some frustrating wiggling but it should pop on. One big point is to make sure your clutch disk is aligned perfectly with the pilot bearing or it's never going to go on..
This. x65789436793. Even with an alignment tool it can still be just a little off center making it all a big PITA.sigpic
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Thanks for the suggestions. It's on the engine hoist. Checking the alignment of the clutch disc, the alignment tool is a really tight fit so it's probably off. So much more frustrating than a rear subframe!Drive it hard. Maintain it well.
Convertible Technical & Discussion
A Topless Memorandum
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Oh I will!
So the bearing issue:
There was a change in size on 9/'90, make sure you know the year of the transmission which we don't. We're dealing with a 15mm input shaft. Don't know which year is the larger size so two new bearings have been ordered. I'll update this thread on which year is what size when the parts arrive via Blunts instantaneous shipping.Drive it hard. Maintain it well.
Convertible Technical & Discussion
A Topless Memorandum
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Having a G260 input shaft is the best alignment tool you can get. someone has a junk trans out there that can get one, makes it a lot easier.
Using the plastic alignment tool, I've found that getting pissed off and basically slamming the transmission on works. I've never had success with the jacks. Just my own arms with a heave and a ho.
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ok here goes.
I was solo re-installing a 5 spd in a 3T truck. That sombitch was an easy 200lbs so just imagine trying to angle it in to place by yourself. I'm thinking 2 days worth until some old timer made a suggestion.
Once the splines start to engage, so there is no risk of the clutch disk dropping, just push on the trans while someone steps on the clutch. The disk floats & self aligns and the input shaft slides home.
Just sayin'...worse case you back off the pressure plate and reinsert the alignment toolSeat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
Alice the Time Capsule
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220
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Get a couple long bolts, with the same thread size as the stock transmission bolts. Cut the heads off of them, grind a notch for a flat head screwdriver, and thread into 2 or 3 of the mounting points on the engine. This will allow you to get the transmission aligned properly and it should slide right in with little effort. Then you can get a few of the other bolts started before unscrewing your alignment "studs." At this point, hopefully you made sure to get long enough bolts so they can be easily removed.
I used this method when I was doing trans work on my S50/ZF car and it worked flawlessly.-Justin
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Current: BMWless for now... '15 Grand Cherokee & '03 Mach 1
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Originally posted by cabin View PostGet a couple long bolts, with the same thread size as the stock transmission bolts. Cut the heads off of them, grind a notch for a flat head screwdriver, and thread into 2 or 3 of the mounting points on the engine. This will allow you to get the transmission aligned properly and it should slide right in with little effort. Then you can get a few of the other bolts started before unscrewing your alignment "studs." At this point, hopefully you made sure to get long enough bolts so they can be easily removed.
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