tricks to get new TB on

[bpmack16]

I have a new TB going in and with the tensioner pressed all the way down it dosnt want to go on to the cam sprocket. It looks to be the correct belt and all. The old belt is a waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles hair longer but I think that is because it is streched out. Any pointers would be good.

[UserError]

One way that works on most belt cars is to put the belt on, then the tensioner. On E30s, it can also help to have the spring out, and have it loose enough to swing completely clear. Once you get the belt in, move the tensioner back in enough to engage, and install the spring. Don't recall having any issues with my last belt job, though I used an original belt, and not an aftermarket one. Not sure whose belt you're using.

[bpmack16]

thanks

[bpmack16]

Ok the TB belt goes on great with the tensioner off. But when I slide the tensioner in and the pin and spring it all looks good but when I double check the TDC on the cam gear and the crank one is off. So I take the belt off align everything and start over. This time I hold the crank with a wrench. That worked good and when I was dun I checked and TDC was off on the cam gear. So it is one or the other. Any hints to keep it all at TDC while doing the job?

[slammin.e28]

Ok the TB belt goes on great with the tensioner off. But when I slide the tensioner in and the pin and spring it all looks good but when I double check the TDC on the cam gear and the crank one is off. So I take the belt off align everything and start over. This time I hold the crank with a wrench. That worked good and when I was dun I checked and TDC was off on the cam gear. So it is one or the other. Any hints to keep it all at TDC while doing the job?

Don't give the belt any slack on the right. Give it some slack on the side the tensioner goes on.

I usually will move the cam forward a bit so when I tension it it pulls it to TDC. I wouldn't do this unless you know what you're doing. Always triple check before even thinking about putting the covers back on.

[bpmack16]

Ya it is my first time but as long as all the lines for TDC are aligned I should be good. I did put all the slack on the the side of the tensioner and for some reason it was off again. So what you are saying is turn the cam gear to the right and when I slide the tensioner in it will turn it back to TDC on the cam gear. There has to be a better way.

[amcink]

also when you think you got it right turn thr crankshaft 2 time and double check that all lines alings along the TDC because they could not align and have to re-align all over again. This is a good way to check if your alignment is good after the final install.

[bpmack16]

Thanks for that. Any more help or tricks??????

[eskimo810]

Start the belt at the crank, to the intermediate pulley, then to the cam, making sure everything is tight as you go. There may be some play between the intermediate pulley and the cam because of the way the notches are spaced on the sprocket. That is okay, just get it as far as possible while keeping the cam at TDC.. I put my belt on with the tensioner installed already. It helped to put about half of the width of the belt on the camshaft sprocket while you press the belt over the tensioner. Once the tensioner spring pushes against the belt, the TDC should line up.

[Delraco]

I just did this about an hour ago. Set TDC on block and head.

-installed tensioner
-slid belt on starting at crank
-moved up to intermediate pulley
-then used a screw driver to compress the tensioner all the way
-once the tensioner is compressed as far as the spring permits, hold it there as you tighten that 13mm bolt at the top of the tensioner to hold it in this position temporarily.
-slip the belt on the cam pulley now, starting from the left, up and over tooth by tooth.
-once on, loosen the 13mm bolt on the tensioner to let it do its job, the retorque once in place.


Hope you've got it all set by now, but if not, I promise this works just fine. It's a bit tight, sure, but it works.

[jeffnhiscars]

I just did this about an hour ago. Set TDC on block and head.

-installed tensioner
-slid belt on starting at crank
-moved up to intermediate pulley
-then used a screw driver to compress the tensioner all the way
-once the tensioner is compressed as far as the spring permits, hold it there as you tighten that 13mm bolt at the top of the tensioner to hold it in this position temporarily.
-slip the belt on the cam pulley now, starting from the left, up and over tooth by tooth.
-once on, loosen the 13mm bolt on the tensioner to let it do its job, the retorque once in place.


Hope you've got it all set by now, but if not, I promise this works just fine. It's a bit tight, sure, but it works.

You actually want to rotate the engine 2 full revs BEFORE you tighten the bolt on the tensioner, since that is the only point when the spring actually does what it is intended to do. If you tighten the bolt before you rotate the engine you you take the spring out of play and have no way to know if the tension is even all around.

Of course you are checking the timing marks after you get the belt & tensioner set.

[Delraco]

You actually want to rotate the engine 2 full revs BEFORE you tighten the bolt on the tensioner, since that is the only point when the spring actually does what it is intended to do. If you tighten the bolt before you rotate the engine you you take the spring out of play and have no way to know if the tension is even all around.

Of course you are checking the timing marks after you get the belt & tensioner set.

I did not know that was truly necessary, but it does make sense. Otherwise, why employ the spring?

I ended up turning the engine a few times with the bolt loose anyway just for fun/to make sure the teeth were not slipping, not as a formal step or anything. My methods have yet to cause me any problems, but it's always good to get all the info available. Thanks.