What's happening is my temperature needle is fluctuating quite bad left and right bouncing under acceleration. I Cracked the oil pan and changed it. It was running fine before that. I didn't turn the car off right away and I know that's bad so please don't get on my ass about it. Also my starter went after the oil pan job so it stars when it's on a good (connection, tooth?) idk what you call it. Could a burnt up oil pump be doing this ( I opened my fill cap and there was oil hitting the valve cover so it looks like oil is sending)? Or maybe a new temp sensor or t-stat? Let me know what y'all think. And this was not my first oil pan job, I've done it 4 times before (time for a skid plate, I know) so I don't believe it was done wrong (but I'm human; I make mistakes) so let me know any ideas you have. Thanks.
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Most often an erratic needle means the nuts on the back of the gauge are lose.sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713
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Originally posted by Tibs View PostLooks like mine have been replaced before, with lithium rather than nicad. I've heard they can wear out faster with nicad too.
SI board batteries can certainly cause cluster issues too. Check out my signature for more info on SI board batteries and Engine Ground Cables. I sell replacements for both.Owner - Bavarian Restoration
BMW and European Electronics Repair and Restoration
www.BavRest.com
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