Is a 800/900 rpm idle a problem

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  • ROLLingKING
    E30 Enthusiast
    • Apr 2011
    • 1169

    #1

    Is a 800/900 rpm idle a problem

    It may not be a problem but I would love it if my car would just idle the right way. Im thinking it could be the TPS or the ICV ive cleaned everything and replaced pretty much every hose under the hood but it still idles high. And sometimes if im in neutral and rev it the rpm's wil sometimes drop and then bounce back up.

    Im probably going to keep trouble shooting but any help suggestions would be muuuch appreciated.
    m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
    build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510
  • timofeylbelarus
    Grease Monkey
    • Dec 2010
    • 326

    #2
    dude i got the same problem, pisses me off, im thinking maybe a bad O2 sensor, but idk, trying to figure this out too
    sigpic

    1985 325e - wrecked :( (being fixed and full paint job)
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=197989
    the horrible day
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=210850
    1991 318i - in process of being made a DD
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=219793

    Comment

    • iXe<30
      Advanced Member
      • Jan 2012
      • 143

      #3
      same guys.... from what ive read it is the icv needing replaced ive seen a few on here for lik 25 bucks but that might be because it has the same problem as ours
      sigpic

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      • mbonanni
        R3V OG
        • Sep 2011
        • 6236

        #4
        I have the same ):

        I tried two diff ICV's to no avail.

        Comment

        • Jaxx_
          E30 Mastermind
          • Dec 2009
          • 1880

          #5
          idle adjustment screw?
          '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
          NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
          Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

          Comment

          • mbonanni
            R3V OG
            • Sep 2011
            • 6236

            #6
            ahh the cheap way out! I have an 86 and the elctornics are so outdated to me. I will do it.

            Comment

            • Gregs///M
              Forum Sponsor
              • Mar 2012
              • 2459

              #7
              I'd get a smoke test done because it is most likely a vacuum leak. But also be sure to test TPS (very important.) Spray out ICV with carb cleaner. Fill it up and shake it really well while plugging each end. Repeat many times to clean it well. light mist of wd40. Counter weight valve should easily sway open and closed.

              Also measure resistance across coils to see if they are within spec. See ETM or repair manual.

              Its very rare to find a M20 that idles perfectly like new.
              Owner - Bavarian Restoration
              BMW and European Electronics Repair and Restoration
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              • PNWDan
                E30 Fanatic
                • Feb 2011
                • 1326

                #8
                Originally posted by Jaxx_
                idle adjustment screw?
                Unless it's been messed with, you should never have to adjust the stop screw. The computer controls the idle with the ICV. The ICV is actuated based on the position of the TPS. If both check out, you should be looking for vacuum leaks. On a rare occasion the DME can go bad and cause this too. Mine did. I would have it tested for vacuum leaks first.

                1987 Alpinweiß 325is

                Like the PNW E30 Local Crew Facebook page

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                • jlevie
                  R3V OG
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 13530

                  #9
                  Have a smoke test run. While there could be other problems, until intake leaks are eliminated or ruled out it is pointless to look for other faults. The O2 sensor is a scheduled maintenance item with a replacement interval of 100k, if that applies replace the sensor.
                  The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                  Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                  Comment

                  • Jaxx_
                    E30 Mastermind
                    • Dec 2009
                    • 1880

                    #10
                    Originally posted by PNWDan
                    Unless it's been messed with, you should never have to adjust the stop screw. The computer controls the idle with the ICV. The ICV is actuated based on the position of the TPS. If both check out, you should be looking for vacuum leaks. On a rare occasion the DME can go bad and cause this too. Mine did. I would have it tested for vacuum leaks first.
                    i thought all M20s were WOT switch TPSs... I don't know how it would control the ICV based on that.
                    '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                    NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                    Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

                    Comment

                    • jlevie
                      R3V OG
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 13530

                      #11
                      The TPS contains an idle switch and a WOT switch.
                      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                      Comment

                      • ROLLingKING
                        E30 Enthusiast
                        • Apr 2011
                        • 1169

                        #12
                        WOW
                        I havnt checked back here but im going to give a new ICV and TPS a try. Then crank sensor. i dont think that is the problem but it wouldnt hurt to have fresh sensors. Ive cleaned the ICV a few times but ill try a new one. I dont really want to smoke test it as ive replaced every old looking hose under the hood, but it couldnt hurt i guess.

                        And adjusting the idle screw was my LAAST fix. I tried getting the little plastic cap out and it just crumbled and broke in the hole. I went to the JY and found one with the idle adjustment screw accessible so after new sensors im gonna put in the spare and give it a try.

                        nice knowing im not alone.haha
                        thanks for all the suggestions. Ill keep this updated as i try solutions.
                        m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
                        build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

                        Comment

                        • jlevie
                          R3V OG
                          • Nov 2006
                          • 13530

                          #13
                          Originally posted by ROLLingKING
                          WOW
                          I havnt checked back here but im going to give a new ICV and TPS a try. Then crank sensor. i dont think that is the problem but it wouldnt hurt to have fresh sensors. Ive cleaned the ICV a few times but ill try a new one. I dont really want to smoke test it as ive replaced every old looking hose under the hood, but it couldnt hurt i guess.
                          I'm pretty meticulous when it comes to working on an engine, but even with everything new on a rebuilt engine I've had small intake leaks every once and a while. Usually because some gasket or seal got damaged during assembly or was bad out of the box. So I routinely smoke test.
                          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                          Comment

                          • the_ps
                            Noobie
                            • Dec 2011
                            • 38

                            #14
                            Also check the metal elbow for the ICV and the other one for the EGR. They can leak where they go into the throttle body. That was the cause of my bad idle. If you can turn the elbow, it leaks.

                            Comment

                            • ROLLingKING
                              E30 Enthusiast
                              • Apr 2011
                              • 1169

                              #15
                              Originally posted by the_ps
                              Also check the metal elbow for the ICV and the other one for the EGR. They can leak where they go into the throttle body. That was the cause of my bad idle. If you can turn the elbow, it leaks.
                              yea imma try those out..did you j-bweld the gaps or is there a way to replace them. I already know theyre a little lose but i figured if they were in they were good
                              m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
                              build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

                              Comment

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