'87 325 w/ '89 m20b25 motor MISFIRE AT IDLE, rough

[mbonanni]

I'm confused as to what exactly this will do for me.

It cranks/turns over, gets fuel, gets spark.

[F34R]

Tells the relay to open and shut to the starter.

But the thing is I swapped a SETA into my 87 ETA. The SETA uses the SAME harness as the b25. All I had to do was splice the automatic relay selection switch bypass.

So in theory you should not have to do the above since I did not do it to mine. We have the same car besides mine was automatic from factory.

[F34R]

Tells the relay to open and shut to the starter.

But the thing is I swapped a SETA into my 87 ETA. The SETA uses the SAME harness as the b25. All I had to do was splice the automatic relay selection switch bypass.

So in theory you should not have to do the above since I did not do it to mine. We have the same car besides mine was automatic from factory.

I went and read the first post...lol

Do you know if the coil is known working order? If not change it out for one that is. I was getting spark on my old ETA and it would not fire, changed the coil and it worked. since you're changing to the b25...did you put the correct ECU in? 173 not the 153.

[noid]

The 173 ECU is fine, it is interchangeable with the 153.

If the harness was meant for an automatic car, you may need to by pass the neutral safety switch:

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showpost.php?p=894253&postcount=12

[lcoleman]

^Wouldn't the neutral safety switch lock out the starter altogether? I don't think a crank no start would be a wiring issue, especially since he has fuel and spark.

Swapping coils is a good suggestion.

[mbonanni]

The harness is actually in fact from a manual.

I have my bets on the i.jectors not firing.

[noid]

Get a volt meter and start checking.

[mbonanni]

This weekend I will be trying again

[mbonanni]

Get a volt meter and start checking.

So I tried a volt meter in the injector plug for cylinder 1. I got nothing.

Is a volt meter the correct way to measure whether power is getting to the injector or no?

Also, if the injectors aren't getting any power, what might be the problem, and how should I fix it?

[noid]

There are two wires that go into the connectors. One wire is power, the other is ground, while having someone else crank the car you should be checking for pulses of power (volt meter or test light).

If your injectors are not getting power, the Bentley manual suggests that the ECU/ECU relay may be the problem.

Check to see that the connector below the throttle body is plugged in, the AFM is plugged in and the idle control valve is plugged in. Also check to see that your crank sensor is in place and plugged in.

[mbonanni]

I cranked the car and my dad put a volt meter of the two female parts of cylinder one Injector plug. We had no feedback. We switched wires, still no feedback.

I do not have a bentley. Which relay does the bently suggest?

[noid]

Download the Bentley manual, someone has a downloadable version on here somewhere.

The Bentley manual also suggests at the 55 pin connector (ecu connector) to

Component or circuit
Fuel injector control (injectors 1 , 3, and 5)


Test terminals
(at 55-point connector
unless otherwise specified)

16 and ground

Test conditions
bridge terminal 36 and 2 with fused jumper wire

Correct test value
fuel injectors (1 , 3, and 5)
click when terminal 16
is touched to ground

[mbonanni]

Ahhh, so confusing.

I did a quick search and found what you are talking about here

http://84.45.115.78/e30zonewiki/index.php/ECU_Pinouts

I am confused on how exactly I test each pin. Do I use a volt meter? When I want to test pin 16 do I put the colt meter on that and ground then crank?

[noid]

Its the big ass connector that connects into the 173 ECU.

[mbonanni]

Just got that. I edited my other post.