I will be going along at highway speeds when my car shudders briefly, the red check engine light comes on, the revs drop, and the car loses speed like I am braking hard. This goes on for a few seconds then the revs pick right back to where they were and the problem goes away. This keeps happening on and off with no pattern. Towards the end of my trip it got worse, the revs did not pick back up and the engine completely cut off a few times. The problem does not seem to happen as much at low speed, but it could be just because the car is not on long enough for this to pop up. This started not too long after I put the engine back in my car after resealing and repainting it. Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be? Any ideas would be appreciated.
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Check Engine Light. Cutting on and off.
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If the tach takes a drop greater that the loss of road speed would require, the DME is loosing power/ground or START signal, or the DME is loosing timing data. If the tach doesn't react but the econometer drives towards zero there is a problme with the fuel system.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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I believe you do this: While in neutral, turn on the ignition and stomp on the gas pedal 3 times, a light will blink with a sequence. For example, it will blink once, then pause, then twice, then pause, ect.... For a number result of 12ect.... If that doesn't make sense, fucking google it.sigpic
1999 528it - Daily Driver “Dad Wagon”
1991 325is - 2.8L Budget Stroker Garage Slut
1991 318is - Sold
1986 325 - Sold
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I had a similar problem, still not sure exactly what it was. it seemed to be a few issues, all fuel related. My car would stall out mid drive.
clogged fuel filter or faulty fpr. i replaced my filter and it would stall less frequently.
check the connections at the fuel pump under your back seat to see if it is getting proper power, also the are two relays by the air-box that i believe are fuel related, unplugging and replugging them worked for a while to start my car back up after it would stall.
fuse #11 is for your fuel pump as well, that blew one time and replacing it solved the problem for me. it hasn't died in a couple months now.
get a fuel pressure gauge
Hope that helps
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Classic signs of a failed AFM. Check my thread on the topic for more details on why this happens. (AFM signal drops to zero volts while driving)Owner - Bavarian Restoration
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Originally posted by tcc91 View PostThe tach reacts. Engine speed drops quickly, causing the car to shudder and slow down. Most of the time it picks back up to where it was quickly, a few times the engine speed failed to pick back up and the engine died.
You don't say what car this is. The stomp test only works on 325i/is/ic cars produced after 9/87 if the original DME is present. It will work on a 325is/ic produced from 9/86-8/87 only if the DME has been changed to a 173 or later. It will never work on a ETA or early 318. Even on the cars where it is supported the TPS must be fully functional and proper adjusted.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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