MY oil cool has a hole in the middle and it is jizzing out oil. Legit jizzed into my garage about 10feet. I need to know how to get the sucker out. please inform.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
How to remove oil cooler?
Collapse
X
-
Tags: None
-
I did mine through the holes in the spoiler. Then slid it out the bottom. The hard part was getting a wrench on the lines. I did that a quarter turn at a time.sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713
-
Originally posted by jlevie View PostIf you don't want to immediately replace the oil cooler you can remove the oil filter adapter and replace it with a spud (part 11112140435. The filter then mounts directly to the spud.
Originally posted by SpasticDwarf;n6449866Honestly I built it just to have a place to sit and listen to Hotline Bling on repeat.
Comment
-
Originally posted by lambo View PostFor a DD how much will the lack of oil cooler affect oil temperatures? Will it make a significant difference?The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
Comment
-
Originally posted by Andy348 View PostI used the eta filter piece which deletes the cooler on my M20B25. No difference without it, and it saves me the trouble of trying to mount it in the engine bay.
I'd say just delete it.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Slicktop_serg View PostI found a nice oil cooler at the junkyard so its all good. Car is up and running. Now i have to figure out how to bleed the cooling systemOriginally posted by jlevie View PostThe ballooning of the hoses sounds like excessive pressure in the cooling system, which could be from a small head gasket leak that is pumping air into the cooling system. It also sounds like the fan clutch may be bad.
With the engine and radiator at operating temperature drag a rolled up newspaper against the fan blade tips. A good clutch will shred the newspaper before you can stop the fan.
A simple check for a head gasket leak is to fully bleed the cooling system (procedure below), drive the car for a bit (but don't let it overheat), and rebleed. Release of a significant amount of air then or on a subsequent bleed is evidence of a head gasket failure. Another clue would be hard radiator hoses after the car has completely clooled down.
1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.
2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.
3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.
4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.
5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.
Originally posted by SpasticDwarf;n6449866Honestly I built it just to have a place to sit and listen to Hotline Bling on repeat.
Comment
Comment