How to remove oil cooler?

[Slicktop_serg]

MY oil cool has a hole in the middle and it is jizzing out oil. Legit jizzed into my garage about 10feet. I need to know how to get the sucker out. please inform.

[bmwguy325is]

I did mine through the holes in the spoiler. Then slid it out the bottom. The hard part was getting a wrench on the lines. I did that a quarter turn at a time.

[dnguyen1963]

MY oil cool has a hole in the middle adis jizzing at oil lmao legit jizzing. I need to know how to get the sucker out. please inform.

Translation please?

[Slicktop_serg]

oooops TYPO.. and its* jizzing. Oil is just shooting out ridiculously

[MR 325]

It mounts to the radiator support with 3x 10mm head bolts if I remember correctly.

To remove it from the block you can remove the middle bolt (with 17mm head) to take off the complete filter housing or you can remove the lines individually from the housing.

[jlevie]

If you don't want to immediately replace the oil cooler you can remove the oil filter adapter and replace it with a spud (part 11112140435. The filter then mounts directly to the spud.

[lambo]

If you don't want to immediately replace the oil cooler you can remove the oil filter adapter and replace it with a spud (part 11112140435. The filter then mounts directly to the spud.

For a DD how much will the lack of oil cooler affect oil temperatures? Will it make a significant difference?

[MR 325]

Honestly probably not that big of a deal.

That being said, oil coolers are pretty cheap to buy used here on the forum.

[jlevie]

For a DD how much will the lack of oil cooler affect oil temperatures? Will it make a significant difference?

The stock oil cooler doesn't do much and isn't really necessary on a daily driver. A Spec E30 friend only saw a 5F difference between having the oil cooler and removing it.

[Andy348]

I used the eta filter piece which deletes the cooler on my M20B25. No difference without it, and it saves me the trouble of trying to mount it in the engine bay.

I'd say just delete it.

[dandrewg]

I used the eta filter piece which deletes the cooler on my M20B25. No difference without it, and it saves me the trouble of trying to mount it in the engine bay.

I'd say just delete it.

While you are in Canada with colder temps, the OP is in South Florida. Depending on how he drives his car, he could see much higher oil temps than you. Something to keep in mind.

[vpilarrt]

A Spec E30 friend only saw a 5F difference between having the oil cooler and removing it.

Was that 5° in water temp or in oil temp?

[jlevie]

Was that 5° in water temp or in oil temp?

Oil temperature.

[Slicktop_serg]

Update

I found a nice oil cooler at the junkyard so its all good. Car is up and running. Now i have to figure out how to bleed the cooling system

[lambo]

I found a nice oil cooler at the junkyard so its all good. Car is up and running. Now i have to figure out how to bleed the cooling system

The ballooning of the hoses sounds like excessive pressure in the cooling system, which could be from a small head gasket leak that is pumping air into the cooling system. It also sounds like the fan clutch may be bad.

With the engine and radiator at operating temperature drag a rolled up newspaper against the fan blade tips. A good clutch will shred the newspaper before you can stop the fan.

A simple check for a head gasket leak is to fully bleed the cooling system (procedure below), drive the car for a bit (but don't let it overheat), and rebleed. Release of a significant amount of air then or on a subsequent bleed is evidence of a head gasket failure. Another clue would be hard radiator hoses after the car has completely clooled down.

1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.

3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.

4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.

From the man, himself. I have done this too many times on my car.