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no fuel after e to i full swap

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    no fuel after e to i full swap

    i have a 87 e and i swapped a 89 m20b25 in rebuilt the head put all new gaskets and seals on entire motor i got the harness c104 engine harness and i would believe i did the 3 wires right for the c101 body harness to the c104 engine harness in the glove box i have the pin in and pin outs info but here is a big question which i didn't think would be a problem because no one has mentioned it but the 325e has the inner and outer fuel pumps but the 325i has only the inner so I'm curious to know if thats a problem and does it need to be bypassed or pull out the outer one or feed more wires I'm confused help.

    #2
    As far as the DME is concerned, it matters not whether the fuel system has one or two pumps.

    I'm a little confused as to what you did with C104 & C101. Could you explain?
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      really sounds like the DME is not getting the signal from the cps
      Much wow
      I hate 4 doors

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        #4
        Sorry for being short but the c104 is the body harness pin connector that connects to the engine harness and the c101 is the I engine harness pin connector and in order to complete the swap with the harness there are 3 wires on the body harness of the e that runs down into the glove box next to the dme here is the post I found with how to connect it all

        here is a copy/paste of someone telling someone else how to wire the C104 just in case you need the info. C104 is in the glove box.Your c104 plug has 3 wiresPin #1 Black Wire-Engine speedPin #2 green wire-OBC Fuel cut functionPin #3 Yellow/White wire-Fuel rateOn the 89 harness you'll need to splice or connect the following wires to the ones on the c104.Pin # 3 from c104 to Pin 8 on the c101 of your 89(Yellow/White or White/Black wire)Pin #2 from the c104, run a wire from directly to the + terminal on the coil(Green wire)Pin #1 from the c104 to pin 9 on the c101(black wire)

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          #5
          I have done this in my 86. I have the dual pumps, I did the wiring exactly as described on this webpage, fired right up first try.



          try jumping the fuel pump relay to verify. also its possible you have the CPS and ignition wire lead mixed up, its really easy to screw that one up.
          ______________________________________
          1984 LSB 318i - Sold
          1986 325i - Motor Swapped Track Car Project
          1995 318ti - Sold
          1999 540iA - Daily Driver

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            #6
            haha problem solved got fuel and she started right up. Do you guys think it would make a difference if I just made the o2 sensor wires longer until I can get the I exhaust?

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              #7
              yes, I did the same thing until i swapped in "i" exhaust. Just cut the o2 wires, extend as needed. Car runs much better that way.
              ______________________________________
              1984 LSB 318i - Sold
              1986 325i - Motor Swapped Track Car Project
              1995 318ti - Sold
              1999 540iA - Daily Driver

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                #8
                Since you did the same swap as me the green wire from the c104 plug in the glove box run straight to the positive terminal on the distributor with the other green distributor wire on the I harness?

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                  #9
                  No, that green wire goes to the starter relay under the cluster. It disables the starter if you have a 13 button OBC. 6 button OBC, that wire is not needed. In fact you can leave that wire off if you don't ever use driveway protection.

                  I also did the same swap in my old car (86 325es) - got done with the swap late at night and left all three wires in the glove box disconnected, drove to/from work the next day before I could get back to it - just had no tach or econogauge.
                  john@m20guru.com
                  Links:
                  Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                    #10
                    Isn't it for fuel cut off or something? k well ill remove it then what about this I have another post about my other issue I unplugged the cps with the engine idling and it immediately shut off and then I plugged it back in then tried to start it and now it won't start up again

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                      #11
                      Okay so I got her to start up again but what do I need to do now to fix the fuel problem when I step don the gas to rev up she bogs down and dies most of the time.

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                        #12
                        What is the rail fuel pressure when you try to rev the engine?
                        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                          #13
                          I don't know yet all I have is compression tester I think that its the outer fuel pump thats not working with this harness or somthing

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by The Bimm View Post
                            Okay so I got her to start up again but what do I need to do now to fix the fuel problem when I step don the gas to rev up she bogs down and dies most of the time.
                            Did you solve this?
                            Patrick Henry

                            1989 325iC build: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=316880


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                              #15
                              Originally posted by phenryiv1 View Post
                              Did you solve this?
                              update?
                              on my harness from a 87 is it has a brown wire thats beem cut anyone know what it is?
                              been searching and im just lost

                              Untitled by clean3two3, on Flickr
                              Last edited by efficient; 07-14-2013, 10:23 PM.

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