Extremely loud ticking after head rebuild

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  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by -bimmerboy-
    No i know its not that, its not really a metal clanging sound
    valve to piston contact isn't metal to metal clanging (if it is, your engine is already dead). it sounds like a loud ticking. it can be light enough to be loud and not damage the valves but the main bearings won't like it at all.

    this kid needs a lot of help. I don't think we should be too hard on him unless he's refusing to try and learn. Obviously a head build was a little too much but now he gets to learn.

    OP - you need to do some research and reading. the bentley is definitely a good place to start.

    56 ft/lbs is the initial torque for torque to yield bolts. then you need to turn them 90 degrees, in the tightening pattern, 2 full sequences (180 degrees total). and they shouldn't be re-used. TTY bolts are actually very forgiving and they don't need to be retightened after heat cycles.

    also, iphones suck. :p
    Last edited by nando; 02-19-2013, 11:56 AM.

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  • ak-
    replied
    Originally posted by JasonC
    The search function works just fine on here with my Android.
    Yeah weird. My iPhone doesn't let me open the drop down menu either on search.

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  • e30slidewayz
    replied
    ^Cheeezus... kid does a head rebuild and doesn't know how to adjust valves? Sounds like you need to pull the head again and check for damage. Piston/valve contact? Too much torch on the new head gasket? Definitely go with a new set of head bolts. Research is key, learned my lesson a few times... we all do it. However, with a head rebuild you needs to be a lil more careful. Anyways, good luck with it. Hope you didn't ruin anything.

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  • travish325
    replied
    Originally posted by The Bimm
    trial and error

    This, Why is everyone giving him shit? Best way to learn is do it and fuck up and do it again.

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  • The Bimm
    replied
    Reading, asking, helping, trial and error more reading and asking questions then anything

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  • delatlanta1281
    replied
    Originally posted by -bimmerboy-
    Already have an e30 bud. Not jerry rigged either. What have you done to your car?
    It's not what he's done to his car, it's what he hasn't done to it. Buy a Bentley, research, and get someone with experience to help you. Fwiw you at least need new head bolts.

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  • JasonC
    replied
    Originally posted by IronFreak
    My phone is the same way and I have an android.
    Originally posted by -bimmerboy-
    Thought i was the only one with this problem
    The search function works just fine on here with my Android.

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  • -bimmerboy-
    replied
    Originally posted by VAE30FTW
    This is why I'm glad I already have an E30.

    Feel sorry for all those jerry rigged E30's out there and their prospective future owners...
    Already have an e30 bud. Not jerry rigged either. What have you done to your car?

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  • VAE30FTW
    replied
    This is why I'm glad I already have an E30.

    Feel sorry for all those jerry rigged E30's out there and their prospective future owners...

    Leave a comment:


  • dnguyen1963
    replied
    No need to apologize, but lesson #1...search, search, and search for background info on your project before jumping head on. Please do your homework. It will save you a ton of headache and $$$.

    Leave a comment:


  • -bimmerboy-
    replied
    Originally posted by MR 325
    You mean head bolts? They are torque to yield. They can not be re-torqued. The head bolts are not going to come loose from having no exhaust... Jesus Christ!

    What clearance did your "friend" adjust the valves to?
    Shit, so they arent reusable? Damn i took them out and then torqued them back down again. No need to be a jerk im only 17 years old man im not a damn experienced mechanic so i was just wondering i didnt know geez sorry

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  • The Bimm
    replied
    This sounds like a total disaster hopefully the oil is only seeping from a seal down to the back corner and valve adjustments are simple set to tdc write your firing order down on paper mark them off as you go I think its 153624 I always forget so double check it go get a feeler gage at any auto store and start with the first cylinder and do both valves for that cylinder if your engine is dead cold you measure the gap with the feeler gage at 0.010 thousandths of a inch if the engine is warm do 0.012 thousandths of an inch tighten the eccentrics down double check the gap then move on to the next cylinder rotating the engine 120° degrees make sure cam lobes are pointing down at the head and are at there lowest lift point. Its simple once you do it for the first time you won't forget it it should be dome every 15 to 20 thousand miles and I just briefly explained it but it's easiest done with hands on learning good luck hope its minor problems.

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  • MR 325
    replied
    You mean head bolts? They are torque to yield. They can not be re-torqued. The head bolts are not going to come loose from having no exhaust... Jesus Christ!

    What clearance did your "friend" adjust the valves to?

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  • -bimmerboy-
    replied
    Originally posted by IronFreak
    My phone is the same way and I have an android.
    Thought i was the only one with this problem

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  • -bimmerboy-
    replied
    Originally posted by MR 325
    So who installed the rocker shafts?

    Why is there no oil coming out of the oil tube?

    Why is oil seeping out of the headgasket if the head was just installed?
    I installed the rocker shafts. My friend adjusted/tweaked the valves. And i do not know why the oil is coming out. I was running open headers and the engine was shaking violently for a day that it didnt have exhaust. So i went back to re-torque the head studs thinking they backed out due to excessive shaking. All but 2 or 3 had loosened from their 56 ft lbs of torque which is what the haynes said they should be torqued to. Could it be i need to torque these even more than just 56?

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