I installed the rocker shafts. My friend adjusted/tweaked the valves. And i do not know why the oil is coming out. I was running open headers and the engine was shaking violently for a day that it didnt have exhaust. So i went back to re-torque the head studs thinking they backed out due to excessive shaking. All but 2 or 3 had loosened from their 56 ft lbs of torque which is what the haynes said they should be torqued to. Could it be i need to torque these even more than just 56?
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You mean head bolts? They are torque to yield. They can not be re-torqued. The head bolts are not going to come loose from having no exhaust... Jesus Christ!
What clearance did your "friend" adjust the valves to?Comment
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This sounds like a total disaster hopefully the oil is only seeping from a seal down to the back corner and valve adjustments are simple set to tdc write your firing order down on paper mark them off as you go I think its 153624 I always forget so double check it go get a feeler gage at any auto store and start with the first cylinder and do both valves for that cylinder if your engine is dead cold you measure the gap with the feeler gage at 0.010 thousandths of a inch if the engine is warm do 0.012 thousandths of an inch tighten the eccentrics down double check the gap then move on to the next cylinder rotating the engine 120° degrees make sure cam lobes are pointing down at the head and are at there lowest lift point. Its simple once you do it for the first time you won't forget it it should be dome every 15 to 20 thousand miles and I just briefly explained it but it's easiest done with hands on learning good luck hope its minor problems.Comment
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No need to apologize, but lesson #1...search, search, and search for background info on your project before jumping head on. Please do your homework. It will save you a ton of headache and $$$.Comment
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This is why I'm glad I already have an E30.
Feel sorry for all those jerry rigged E30's out there and their prospective future owners...
H&R OE Sport Springs - Bilstein HD's - Kosei K1's ET27 - Toyo R888 - ZHP 5spd knob - BavAuto strut bar - DINAN Chip - E30 M3 Offset Bushings - Colgan bra - P-car dailyComment
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Reading, asking, helping, trial and error more reading and asking questions then anythingComment
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^Cheeezus... kid does a head rebuild and doesn't know how to adjust valves? Sounds like you need to pull the head again and check for damage. Piston/valve contact? Too much torch on the new head gasket? Definitely go with a new set of head bolts. Research is key, learned my lesson a few times... we all do it. However, with a head rebuild you needs to be a lil more careful. Anyways, good luck with it. Hope you didn't ruin anything.Comment
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valve to piston contact isn't metal to metal clanging (if it is, your engine is already dead). it sounds like a loud ticking. it can be light enough to be loud and not damage the valves but the main bearings won't like it at all.
this kid needs a lot of help. I don't think we should be too hard on him unless he's refusing to try and learn. Obviously a head build was a little too much but now he gets to learn.
OP - you need to do some research and reading. the bentley is definitely a good place to start.
56 ft/lbs is the initial torque for torque to yield bolts. then you need to turn them 90 degrees, in the tightening pattern, 2 full sequences (180 degrees total). and they shouldn't be re-used. TTY bolts are actually very forgiving and they don't need to be retightened after heat cycles.
also, iphones suck. :pLast edited by nando; 02-19-2013, 11:56 AM.Comment
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