2.7i cam suggestions

[Pdxseth]

I'm building a 2.7i I have most of the stuff figured out. Here's my plan

2.7 eta bottom end
Late model 885 head/fuel management etc.

Performance
P&p head Spec 3
P&p intake spec 3
Mark d chip(173 dme)
Headers
M50 injectors

I don't know what to do with the cam I'm not super worried about how much power I get as this is my daily. I just want something that you can really tell I have a cam I want it to sound bad ass. I know this may be stupid but it's what I want. What size can should I go with
I heard I can run a 280? Is that intake and exhaust? Or a 274? I just want what's gonna give me the best power and that sweet "cammy" sound

My machinest says he can p&p the throttle body as well but were not sure if it will make any power. He does it to ls1's and says there is noticeable throttle response but nothing shows up on the dyno.

This is my first motor build let me know if you have any other suggestions. I want to keep up with those m5x/s5x guys without boost.

[Gary Horneck]

The e bottom end and P&P head are good. P&P intake/TB is a waste of time IMO. Nothing to be gained there. Polishing the outside would do more good... You will need a proper chip timed for the 2.7i conversion. I ran a Dinan chip in my 173, and it made good power, but the motor never sounded happy till I put in the Alpina 2.7i chip that squidmaster sold me. For a DD you probably don't want more than the 274 grind. I have a appointment for some Dyno pulls next weekend, so I will be able to see the power difference in chips (standard i tune vs 2.7i tune).

[MR 325]

I'd definitely stay with a 274.

[Pdxseth]

I'd definitely stay with a 274.

This is odd I was literally just about to pm you. I've pretty much decided the 274 is the route I want to take. Unfortunately I can't find a shop locally that can do a 274 regrind. All I can find is a 270 or 292 :( I have one more local source to call Monday if not you will be hearing from me soon.

From what I understand if I go to big with out boost it will shorten my powerband and run like shit, is this correct? And if I get something closer to stock.....well that's no fun.

[digger]

you wont notice any difference between a 274 and 272 assuming that duration is the only difference.
while on the subject 274 tells you nothing about the cam other than duration. there is soo much more to it.

id never buy a cam from someone unless they tell me what the valve lift is, lobe seperation, checking height the cam duration is rated at and the lift at TDC. ideally they give the duration at 1mm as well but even the germans dont do that

[Pdxseth]

I've been given those numbers but I honestly just don't understand I've been trying to cram all the info I can find on building motors into my he's over the last couple weeks and I think my brain closed a road or something it'll probably be another year before I fully understand all this.

[CabbE30]

My car has an intake leak & an exhaust leak, sounds like a cam.

[Pdxseth]

My car has an intake leak & an exhaust leak, sounds like a cam.

Cool story bro

[MonkeyMan]

if you're more interested in a lumpy idle than making power, I might have a euro 323 cam for you soon if you want it..
it has more duration but less lift than a b25 cam (I'm guessing for the smaller bore of the b23, and it's pretty lumpy at idle - as in, it sounds meaner than it actually is..
other than that, it runs well, passes CA emissions, and the dyno showed that it actually has a fatter midrange torque curve than most stock B25's I've seen dynoed - it put down 160whp & 168wtq, but fell pretty flat around 5500rpm, probably due to the combination of less lift with a bigger bore.

[digger]

ive plotted out the B23 vs B25 cam and there is not much between them and certainly not worth pursuing at all. An aftermarket schrick etc will fulfill your needs alot better