Hard, long crank start when cold, warm. m20b25

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  • nickmcc92
    E30 Addict
    • Dec 2012
    • 442

    #16
    Thanks guys.

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    • e30construction
      E30 Addict
      • Jan 2013
      • 591

      #17
      yea get a smoke test done but i would consider tackling the valve cover bolts first just to see if theres any improvment
      sigpic
      93 325i 120k
      mods: straight pipe,eibach sport springs,style 54s,kamotors carbonfiber cai,
      future mods: chip, m3 cams, headers, turbo

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      • nickmcc92
        E30 Addict
        • Dec 2012
        • 442

        #18
        I replaced the valve cover studs and no difference. Fixed some leaks though :)
        I did adjust my valves though and my car is a lot quieter.
        But I can still feel a slight misfire (stumble). It's not too bad but I'd like to fix it.
        I put on my old fuel filter. Now my car starts on first try, but still takes about 3-4 cranks.
        I did buy the new one from pepboys. Damn Purolators...

        I have no idea where there can be a possible leak other than the intake boot?

        Comment

        • dnguyen1963
          R3VLimited
          • Nov 2011
          • 2648

          #19
          That is why you do a SMOKE TEST! You cannot see or hear all the leaks. In the mean time, check for the elbows going into the throttle body...a common source of intake leaks.

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          • nickmcc92
            E30 Addict
            • Dec 2012
            • 442

            #20
            Wish I had money :)

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            • vert_this
              Grease Monkey
              • Feb 2012
              • 395

              #21
              It may sound dumb on the hard start issue but is your battery fully up? I would get it tested as if you CCA are falling off this could lead to the hard start. The new filter may ask for more flow to get to the motor which is causing the addtl cranking. I bought a new battery at advanceauto for my toyota and it would crank a couple of times before firing. I went in there and had them test it and they said sure enough the CCA were less than expected, volts good though. They gave me a new battery and now it starts correctly. The clerk also told me they were getting a string of these lately where volts were there but cranking amps were not.

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              • nickmcc92
                E30 Addict
                • Dec 2012
                • 442

                #22
                Wow that does sound highly likely. It has not always been like this.
                Good suggestion vert_this.

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                • nickmcc92
                  E30 Addict
                  • Dec 2012
                  • 442

                  #23
                  Read this troubleshoot off e30performance.info

                  "If you think you have a vacuum leak you can check by blocking off the intake on your airbox with your hand. With the intake opening blocked off the engine should choke out and die. If it keeps running like nothing happened, you have a vacuum leak."

                  "If it were me, I'd get a can of starter fluid because you should always have one in your garage anyways. Then I would block off the intake with my palm if I though it had a vacuum leak, and when it kept running assuming it had a vacuum leak, I'd check the vacuum leak points I listed because I knwo where they all are, and if I couldn't spot anything that way I'd douse shit in starter fluid until my idle picked up."

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                  • nickmcc92
                    E30 Addict
                    • Dec 2012
                    • 442

                    #24

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