New gasket leaks oil, no real power or coolant losses

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  • Kozworth
    E30 Fanatic
    • May 2011
    • 1339

    #1

    New gasket leaks oil, no real power or coolant losses

    Just did a hg on my m20, its an oringed block with arp. Elring klinger hg.

    I torqued exactly to the bentley specs. I forget off hand, but I feel it was two different ft lb specs, then 70* and 70* or something along those lines. I am getting some oil seepage from the corner bolt somewhat above the waterpump.

    I remember reading guys retorque arps.. What would I throw down on this situation? Another quarter turn on each nut?

    FYI, I rebuilt the engine and did the hg in class with my teacher, who has built many race engines in his day. He ok'd the deck cleanliness, torque spec, torque sequence, and head straightness.
  • jlevie
    R3V OG
    • Nov 2006
    • 13530

    #2
    Oil seepage at that end of the engine is not uncommon. While it could be from a failure to properly torque the head bolts it is more likely to be from a head that isn't flat or a bad gasket.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

    Comment

    • Kozworth
      E30 Fanatic
      • May 2011
      • 1339

      #3
      It isnt a seep, its a leak. If i drive the car, it drips all around. Any chance I can try just retightening it?

      The head was on a different block and did not seep or have any leak issues. The block itself was honed and machined so I believe it is ok aswell.

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      • jlevie
        R3V OG
        • Nov 2006
        • 13530

        #4
        Ahh, but did you have the head surfaced before you installed it? I have yet to see a used head that didn't need to be surfaced, but then I have very strict standards w/respect to flatness. Some folks get away with it, but I'm not going to take a chance.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment

        • Kozworth
          E30 Fanatic
          • May 2011
          • 1339

          #5
          I did not, but I am going to be pulling the whole distributor cap and valve cover to check the rocker plugs and cam seal, and just follow the oil. But worst case what is wrong with torquing the head bolts a hair more?

          Comment

          • dougie30
            E30 Mastermind
            • Apr 2012
            • 1708

            #6
            the head MUST be resurface before re installing it
            M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

            Comment

            • ForcedFirebird
              R3V OG
              • Feb 2007
              • 8300

              #7
              Originally posted by jlevie
              Ahh, but did you have the head surfaced before you installed it? I have yet to see a used head that didn't need to be surfaced, but then I have very strict standards w/respect to flatness. Some folks get away with it, but I'm not going to take a chance.
              Jim is right. When removing a head from another engine, they always warp slightly - really undetectable with a machinist's straight edge, but when it's on the machine being cut, you will see the warp-age.
              john@m20guru.com
              Links:
              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

              Comment

              • Kozworth
                E30 Fanatic
                • May 2011
                • 1339

                #8
                Just followed the oil with cap and rotor off, replaced rocker arm plugs, and front oil leak went away. Now i have a pinhole drip onto the rack, any suggestions? Lookin like its gonna rain and have to diagnose on gravel so any pointers to expedite this would be helpful.

                Comment

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