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    Need Immediate Advice on Overheating E30

    Hey guys,

    This is kind of a rush thing as my car is in the city and it is not the best place for an overheating car so I truly do apologize if you feel I am skipping the search feature to find my gremlin. I PROMISE I will pay it back to R3V when the time comes...I will just jump to it. 1987 325ic

    Problem:
    -Car is overheating when slow driving, traffic and stopped usually floating above 3/4, still hasn't touched red because I have been blasting the heat in these situations.
    -Randomly in traffic car threw a CEL for Coolant Temperature Sensor, car started dipping RPMs while in traffic so I kept it slightly revved and then the CEL magically disappeared. I checked with the CEL stomp test as soon as I was able to pull over.

    Here is what I have done 2 hours before this (FYI: This same exact issue was happening before for the past week so this is why I replaced everything):
    -Replaced Thermostat with gasket (For some reason old thermostat was broken like it snapped)
    -Replaced Water Pump with gasket
    -Replaced New Clutch Fan
    -Flushed old green coolant PO had completely, did 50/50 with BMW Blue Coolant and Distilled Water

    I first felt it overheating a week ago:
    Originally car was running at 1/4 to 3/8 never above. My heater controls were not activating anything, I realized the fuse for the heater core was bubbled up and literally burned so I replaced it with a new 30a fuse in the fuse box, this made the control turn on the heater. Once this happened, the heater core is very loud so it seems the blower motor is completly shot. AC itself has absolutely no charge and makes an even louder noise if I push the button.

    Once I replaced this fuse and the heater started working (which I think it had not been working in a long time) that same day all of a sudden I notice the car creeping past 1/2 temperature up to 1/3. So I am here no begging for someones sound advice as to what I can do to solve or check this.

    Please don't forget I had that random Coolant Temperature sensor CEL for 5 minutes in traffic. Is there any possibility one of these sensors is causing the car to overheat?

    As for bleeding the system, I let the coolant cycle originally and worked with the bleeder valve and filing the coolant tub until I saw a constant stream. I have yet to raise the front of the car and bleed it this way, the car was only on flat ground for the bleeding procedure.

    BTW, I have realized that my radiator is out of an automatic e30. As for the clutch fan, it does get activated but as my car was parked and overheating, I did not notice too much action from the clutch fan but some random slow spins here and there.

    Please someone advise me on what I could do. Are the sensors possibly bad? If so, would it give me these symptoms? We did a pressure test before putting in the coolant, and it held a great amount of pressure so there is surely no leaks.

    Will gladly try to reward those that help me to completion. I really appreciate ALL help and will be checking in right away if there are any comments or questions for me.

    #2
    Since you didn't mention it specifically, I have to ask. When you refilled and bled the system, did you have the heater control set to hot, so the valve was open and filled the core? I'm assuming you did.

    I would run the car and either pop a thermometer into the coolant reservoir, to verify temperature. Or use an infrared thermometer to check temps, like at the thermostat cover.

    I wonder what the condition of your radiator is? Whether it is partially clogged or the passages restricted?

    That's what popped into my noggin.

    Comment


      #3
      A faulty CTS shouldn't cause your car to overheat, but it does affect the fuelling of the motor so you should replace it if it isn't functioning properly.

      When you replaced the thermostat did you install it right side up (they have a little arrow stamped in them)?

      When the car is warm and running if you take the cap off of the expansion tank can you see a stream of coolant coming from the overflow line on the rad into the tank?

      Also, do you have a shroud on your rad for your clutch fan?

      Comment


        #4
        If the system is fully bled of air (see below) and it is actually running hot (not a gauge fault), the first suspect in this case would be a clogged radiator. You can use an IR or contact thermometer to see what the head temperature is to rule out a faulty gauge.

        However, if bleeds interspersed with driving release a significant amount of air the head gasket is leaking.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Quadrajet View Post
          Since you didn't mention it specifically, I have to ask. When you refilled and bled the system, did you have the heater control set to hot, so the valve was open and filled the core? I'm assuming you did.

          I would run the car and either pop a thermometer into the coolant reservoir, to verify temperature. Or use an infrared thermometer to check temps, like at the thermostat cover.

          I wonder what the condition of your radiator is? Whether it is partially clogged or the passages restricted?
          Thanks for your reply. Actually I did not have the heater control on or set to hot when we were bleeding the system.
          I can go pick up an IR thermometer today, but Im not entirely sure what I would I would be gauging the temperature against. Any info to push my way on this would be awesome.

          Originally posted by Bullet Ride View Post
          A faulty CTS shouldn't cause your car to overheat, but it does affect the fuelling of the motor so you should replace it if it isn't functioning properly.

          When you replaced the thermostat did you install it right side up (they have a little arrow stamped in them)?

          When the car is warm and running if you take the cap off of the expansion tank can you see a stream of coolant coming from the overflow line on the rad into the tank?

          Also, do you have a shroud on your rad for your clutch fan?
          Bullet,
          I will order a new CTS anyways since it might just have corrosion from PO not taking care of the system as it should be.
          As for thermostat, from what we believe we didn't see the little arrow but I will unscrew the thermostat today and make sure it is in there properly.
          I will go ahead and see if the overflow line is pushing coolant back.
          And yes, there is a fan shroud around the clutch fan that is secured to the radiator.

          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
          If the system is fully bled of air (see below) and it is actually running hot (not a gauge fault), the first suspect in this case would be a clogged radiator. You can use an IR or contact thermometer to see what the head temperature is to rule out a faulty gauge.

          However, if bleeds interspersed with driving release a significant amount of air the head gasket is leaking.
          I guess there is a chance it could be a clogged radiator. We did flush the radiator out seperately and pressure tested the system before filling up the system with coolant.

          Please once again, give me some input as to how the IR thermometer can help me diagnose what I need to do.


          Thank you everyone for your input, I look forward to more responses.

          Comment


            #6
            Couldn't all these symptoms (high temp readings, CEL, loss of power) be the c191 connector? It's the one under the throttle body.

            Comment


              #7
              Still waiting on getting an IR Thermometer today. I did take off the coolant cap and have confirmed that the return line is functioning as it should.

              Very stressful this problem.

              Comment


                #8
                you might have a pinhole leak in a hose.
                1987 325iC/5 Alpine White/Cardinal
                1988 325iS Lachssilber/Natur
                sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  Still looking for anyone local to NYC if they could look over it and fix this...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Shoot me a pm, I'm local in Williamsburg. M20's can be a bitch to bleed sometimes.

                    Edit, also if it's a clogged rad I have a almost brand new one I'll let go for cheap


                    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
                    -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Every thermostat will have a dot or an arrow because it MUST be installed in a certain way. Its impossible that it does not have one.
                      My Seller/Buyer Feedback

                      Performance Aftermarket Parts & Accessories

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Good Morning Everyone,

                        So here is what I have concluded:
                        -I bought an IR thermometer and ran the car car so it goes to the halfway mark and then to 3/4 and slightly above.

                        At 1/2 on my guage cluster the IR therm was showing around 160ish *F on the top radiator hose and 140ish *F on the bottom hose areas.

                        At 3/4 on my gauge cluster the IR therm was showing around 190ish *F on the top hose and 170ish *F on the bottom hoses.

                        I used the IR therm on all the hoses, the thermostat housing and so on. Everything seemed on point and I was told the half mark on the gauge cluster is supposed to be around 190 *F

                        So as everyone remembers earlier I did get a CEL for CTS, so I went ahead and ordered a new sensor and a new sending unit just in case. I will be doing this on Friday but as of right now, is it safe to say my gauge is just being lied to by the sensor?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by mrslacker View Post
                          every thermostat will have a dot or an arrow because it must be installed in a certain way. Its impossible that it does not have one.
                          + 1
                          Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by redlightpete View Post
                            Couldn't all these symptoms (high temp readings, CEL, loss of power) be the c191 connector? It's the one under the throttle body.

                            Have you checked the c191 electrical connector yet?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Pete,
                              Are you talking about this?


                              If so I could see why this could be another issue I should check. Any advice as to checking if it is faulty besides just a visual inspection?

                              Comment

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