Hey guys,
This is kind of a rush thing as my car is in the city and it is not the best place for an overheating car so I truly do apologize if you feel I am skipping the search feature to find my gremlin. I PROMISE I will pay it back to R3V when the time comes...I will just jump to it. 1987 325ic
Problem:
-Car is overheating when slow driving, traffic and stopped usually floating above 3/4, still hasn't touched red because I have been blasting the heat in these situations.
-Randomly in traffic car threw a CEL for Coolant Temperature Sensor, car started dipping RPMs while in traffic so I kept it slightly revved and then the CEL magically disappeared. I checked with the CEL stomp test as soon as I was able to pull over.
Here is what I have done 2 hours before this (FYI: This same exact issue was happening before for the past week so this is why I replaced everything):
-Replaced Thermostat with gasket (For some reason old thermostat was broken like it snapped)
-Replaced Water Pump with gasket
-Replaced New Clutch Fan
-Flushed old green coolant PO had completely, did 50/50 with BMW Blue Coolant and Distilled Water
I first felt it overheating a week ago:
Originally car was running at 1/4 to 3/8 never above. My heater controls were not activating anything, I realized the fuse for the heater core was bubbled up and literally burned so I replaced it with a new 30a fuse in the fuse box, this made the control turn on the heater. Once this happened, the heater core is very loud so it seems the blower motor is completly shot. AC itself has absolutely no charge and makes an even louder noise if I push the button.
Once I replaced this fuse and the heater started working (which I think it had not been working in a long time) that same day all of a sudden I notice the car creeping past 1/2 temperature up to 1/3. So I am here no begging for someones sound advice as to what I can do to solve or check this.
Please don't forget I had that random Coolant Temperature sensor CEL for 5 minutes in traffic. Is there any possibility one of these sensors is causing the car to overheat?
As for bleeding the system, I let the coolant cycle originally and worked with the bleeder valve and filing the coolant tub until I saw a constant stream. I have yet to raise the front of the car and bleed it this way, the car was only on flat ground for the bleeding procedure.
BTW, I have realized that my radiator is out of an automatic e30. As for the clutch fan, it does get activated but as my car was parked and overheating, I did not notice too much action from the clutch fan but some random slow spins here and there.
Please someone advise me on what I could do. Are the sensors possibly bad? If so, would it give me these symptoms? We did a pressure test before putting in the coolant, and it held a great amount of pressure so there is surely no leaks.
Will gladly try to reward those that help me to completion. I really appreciate ALL help and will be checking in right away if there are any comments or questions for me.
This is kind of a rush thing as my car is in the city and it is not the best place for an overheating car so I truly do apologize if you feel I am skipping the search feature to find my gremlin. I PROMISE I will pay it back to R3V when the time comes...I will just jump to it. 1987 325ic
Problem:
-Car is overheating when slow driving, traffic and stopped usually floating above 3/4, still hasn't touched red because I have been blasting the heat in these situations.
-Randomly in traffic car threw a CEL for Coolant Temperature Sensor, car started dipping RPMs while in traffic so I kept it slightly revved and then the CEL magically disappeared. I checked with the CEL stomp test as soon as I was able to pull over.
Here is what I have done 2 hours before this (FYI: This same exact issue was happening before for the past week so this is why I replaced everything):
-Replaced Thermostat with gasket (For some reason old thermostat was broken like it snapped)
-Replaced Water Pump with gasket
-Replaced New Clutch Fan
-Flushed old green coolant PO had completely, did 50/50 with BMW Blue Coolant and Distilled Water
I first felt it overheating a week ago:
Originally car was running at 1/4 to 3/8 never above. My heater controls were not activating anything, I realized the fuse for the heater core was bubbled up and literally burned so I replaced it with a new 30a fuse in the fuse box, this made the control turn on the heater. Once this happened, the heater core is very loud so it seems the blower motor is completly shot. AC itself has absolutely no charge and makes an even louder noise if I push the button.
Once I replaced this fuse and the heater started working (which I think it had not been working in a long time) that same day all of a sudden I notice the car creeping past 1/2 temperature up to 1/3. So I am here no begging for someones sound advice as to what I can do to solve or check this.
Please don't forget I had that random Coolant Temperature sensor CEL for 5 minutes in traffic. Is there any possibility one of these sensors is causing the car to overheat?
As for bleeding the system, I let the coolant cycle originally and worked with the bleeder valve and filing the coolant tub until I saw a constant stream. I have yet to raise the front of the car and bleed it this way, the car was only on flat ground for the bleeding procedure.
BTW, I have realized that my radiator is out of an automatic e30. As for the clutch fan, it does get activated but as my car was parked and overheating, I did not notice too much action from the clutch fan but some random slow spins here and there.
Please someone advise me on what I could do. Are the sensors possibly bad? If so, would it give me these symptoms? We did a pressure test before putting in the coolant, and it held a great amount of pressure so there is surely no leaks.
Will gladly try to reward those that help me to completion. I really appreciate ALL help and will be checking in right away if there are any comments or questions for me.
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