Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Need some help: Rough Idle, Vibrations and Drivetrain Noise

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Need some help: Rough Idle, Vibrations and Drivetrain Noise

    Hi all,

    I recently let my friend drive my e30 when his car was in the repair shop. He called me tonight to tell me the E30 was not doing so well. Here's the (long) story...

    He was driving home from work today and was running low on gas. He was just above the empty line when he noticed the engine was running rough. It idled poor, bad throttle response, and had vibrations. He got it to the gas station and filled it up with 91 octane, but the condition did not improve. Because the car was within a few miles of his house he drove it home.

    He called me and I drove over to his house after dinner. Prior to starting the car, I inspected the engine bay for any "easy to find" problems. I didn't find any vacuum leaks, oil leaks, missing/loose components, etc. etc. I then started the car and observed the engine noises. Not only was it idling rough (sounded like a misfire?), but the car made a significant more amount of noise when the clutch was out (and in neutral). I believe this could be the throw-out bearing, but I'm wondering how the condition worsened so in 1 week. Finally, I noticed that the oil light was on in the car. This wasn't too uncommon as it seemed every 3-4 weeks, I would add <1 qt.

    At this point I was pretty worried so I pulled all of the spark plugs out to inspect. All of them look satisfactory and remain consistent across all 6 cylinders. I then performed compression test which yielded 160psi across the board.

    After messing around with all of the connectors on the intake manifold, the spark plug wires and ignition coil, I started it up again. It seems the misfiring issue was reduced/eliminated, but it just didn't feel the same. I decided to take the car for a short drive around the neighborhood. There is definitely more drive train noise then i remember. Also, the car doesn't idle as consistent as it did.

    Sorry for the long rant, but I'm wondering if these issues could be related and what I should try next.

    The car iis an '89 325i vert that has just over 240,000.

    For reference, I have replaced the following less than 2,000 miles ago.

    -Oil
    -Spark Plugs
    -Air Filter


    Please help!

    Evan

    #2
    Just a thought here but... Could being low on gas make the pumps suck junk out of the tank and end up in the fuel filter? THereby starving the injectors of fuel and making it idle badly and mess up the throttle response. I know that doesn't help with the drivetrain noises... :(
    It sounds like you'll figure it out with some poking around
    -Christian

    '02 ///M3 CarbonSchwartz 6MT daily beast
    08/91 Mtechnic II 325IC alpine/lotus
    318iS, slow build/garage queen...
    '37 Chevy pickup, the über project
    Originally posted by roguetoaster
    Be sure to remind them that the M42 is one of the best engines ever made, but be sure to not mention where it actually falls on that list.

    Comment


      #3
      Noise when the clutch is engaged and the transmission is in neutral that goes away when the clutch is disengaged will be from wear of the transmission input shaft bearings, i.e., Getrag Rattle.

      The rough running and misfires could be any of a number of things, but the first cause to investigate would be intake leaks. Have a shop run a smoke test.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

      Comment


        #4
        Replaced the fuel filter and still no luck.

        It appears there are 2 main issues.

        1. Engine running "rough". It stumbles at very low RPM. and then breaks up when +2,000
        2. Drivetrain bearing noise.


        I identified a vacuum leak on top of the IM. A small 2-3inch rubber hose has a big crack in it. Anyone know where I can source one?

        Also, will replacing the tranny fluid/diff fluid help reduce any of the noise from the drivetrain or do I have to remove the tranny and replace the bearings + clutch while i'm at it.


        Evan

        Comment


          #5
          Hey guys,

          Still struggling here.

          Today I did the following

          1. replaced distributor cap + rotor (old ones were terribly corroded!!)
          2. Cleaned out IAC sensor with MAF cleaner
          3. Replaced vacuum line from IAC to intake manifold.
          4. Inspected intake boot for leaks

          The car is still idling and driving rough!

          Please help!!!

          Comment


            #6
            Subbed to this thread. My car just started doing this last night. I had been driving fine with no problems since I got it painted. Finally, I noticed the acceleration modulating. I got it home fine. The shit really hit the fan this morning. Extreme rough idle, acceleration was none existent. It doesn't matter if I am in gear or not. It will die.

            I cleaned my spark plugs not long ago to fix a minor idling issue. I also filled my car up with 87 this last tank after getting it close to empty I guess. But I have been driving it for a week so far. fml.

            Comment


              #7
              check fuel pressure and get back to us with your findings

              Comment


                #8
                Hey guys,

                I just pulled the fuel injectors and cleaned/rebuilt them. I used a 9v battery and cleaned them with brake cleaner. Then I put everything back together and the car still runs horrible.

                Just to clarify, its not just an idle issue. It sounds like a misfire, complete lack of power, i.e: NOT drivable.


                Please help! Its going into the shop on tuesday unless someone can help...

                Comment


                  #9
                  Checked the ignition side from coil to plugs?
                  Checked the fuel delivery side from pump to injectors including the harness?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Quinthirty View Post
                    Checked the ignition side from coil to plugs?
                    Checked the fuel delivery side from pump to injectors including the harness?

                    How can I check that my coil is operating properly?

                    How can I check that my fuel pump is operating properly. If need be, I guess I'll have to get a fuel pressure gauge and do a inline T. Is that the easiest?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Rocker arm broken on cylinder #2...

                      This is bad.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Rocker arm broken on cylinder #2...

                        This is bad.

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X