stock 5speed m20b25 motor, i replaced the air intake bellow since the old one was cracked, still high idle, the o2 sensor looks old and white but i dont think this is my problem. I am running an auto 173 motoronic in a standard transmission, would this be my problem? my old stock motoronic 173 ecu doesnt turn over, fried chip? sometimes when i first start it up it is at 1k idle but after i start driving and come to a stop it stays at 2k. Im thinking most likely is the ecu, but anyone have ideas? TIA
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Clean the idle control valve.
Same with AFM.
Check for other vacume leaks.
Ecu shouldn't matter whether it came from auto or manual tranny. -
cleaned ICV and hoses, afm, checked for cracks, after i cleaned the ICV the idle got a little better and at cold start it stays at about 800rpm but when i drive and come to a red light it stays at 2k, now sometimes jumps between 1-2k rpm at idle, any ideas? bad ICV?Comment
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Id swap icv with a good one to rule it out. The icv is controlled by the tps too although if the tps is stuck open it should cause icv to not work. Also replace the two prong coolant temp sensor. Its cheap.Comment
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i also saw these 2 components unplugged i plugged them in but no difference does anyone know if these are for a/c? im not running a/c.. should these be unplugged? or what these connectors are for and i might of reversed the leads in the 3rd pic...Attached FilesComment
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On my car, the cruise control cable bushing would hang up on the bracket and pull the throttle open slightly. Worth a look...Comment
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im thinking possibly a coolant temperature sensor, does these seem like symptoms? at cold start it idles fine at about 800rpm then after driving it goes to 2k rpm idle, for a cheap part its worth a try, any other suggestions?Comment
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coolant temp sensor $15 bucks, problem solvedComment
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Damn you got off lucky. I've replaced all the rubber and gaskets (O2 sensor, CTS, and ICV [twice] too) on the top end of the engine except for the charcoal canister hose and my idle is a constant 2k at idle in park (sometimes only when hot). Sprayed all over the drivers side of the engine with carb cleaner and no luck either.
I'm leaning towards a fubarred ECU at this point.
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i was running an auto 173 ecu for the longest time and i thought that was what my high idle was from from it not stalling out from being auto, it wasnt but its a $50 junkyard part, auto ecu is ok! meybe bad afm? those are cheap at yards tooComment
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