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Stuck on timing belt DIY v.power steering belt

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    Stuck on timing belt DIY v.power steering belt

    First off, this timing belt DIY project is the first thing I've ever done on my E30 (or any car for that matter) except for a really ghetto antenna delete. But from reading as many forum threads on various boards as i could find about it, the consensus was that a total amateur could get it done if they had the tools and could follow directions and use common sense... famous last words...

    Mostly following the DIY from this r3v thread (link: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=158446)

    But I can't figure out how to loosen and remove the power steering belt.

    Step 14: Remove power steering belt.
    oLoosen all 3 bolts (2x 13mm, 1x 19mm)
    o
    Use bracket to move pump inward, loosening the belt.

    o
    Remove and label belt




    I checked the bentley manual and (maybe i'm just really dumb) but i could not find anything about how to actually remove the belts. I went back to keep trying, and after a lot of frustration, I searched, i found this thread- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=305609

    With a diagram of the adjuster bar and i thought i had it figured out... i loosened every bolt on the thing that i could access but no dice, it still barely budges inward.

    I have replacement belts for all the belts, so I figure I can just cut them off.

    BUT -- my worry is that if I cut the old ones off without understanding how to manipulate the belts, I won't be able to install the replacement ones...

    Any tips or ideas? I'd really like to get this wrapped up tomorrow after work, this is my only car

    Thanks in advance

    PS- took the first pic of my car right before I started this project

    1987 325 (no i or e - that makes it an eta, right? -- does that make much difference to the timing belt procedure - shouldn't from what i understand -- which is not much)


    #2
    use the toothed bolt that is in the picture. It sits inside another toothed bracket.
    2014 Alpine White 335i MSport
    (Daily Driver)
    Full Mperformance Aero

    2007 Black Sapphire Metallic E92 335i (6MT)
    KW V2 Coilovers
    VRSF Catless Downpipes

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      #3
      Not trying to be a dick, but if you cant figure this out I would highly recommend finding someone to help you out with this project.

      loosen that toothed bolt you see in the picture, that should relive tension on the belt. If for some odd reason it doesn't, remove the three bolts on the pulley and take the belt off that way.

      `92 325 vert - `90 325 coupe `99 m3 - Instagram @e30L

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        #4
        Originally posted by codyep3 View Post
        use the toothed bolt that is in the picture. It sits inside another toothed bracket.
        Originally posted by e30lov View Post
        Not trying to be a dick, but if you cant figure this out I would highly recommend finding someone to help you out with this project.

        loosen that toothed bolt you see in the picture, that should relive tension on the belt. If for some odd reason it doesn't, remove the three bolts on the pulley and take the belt off that way.
        Thank you both, that is what I have been trying to do

        feel free to lol @ me

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          #5
          Great way to dig into e30 ownership. haha Good luck tackling that gotta start somewhere.
          Continuous For Sale Thread
          323i s50

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            #6
            In your picture the far right toothed bolt is your adjuster. Loosen the outer bolt believe it's a 13mm while holding the inner larger bolt. Next place pry bar between the p/s pump and the chassis and lever the pump toward the engine. You can achieve the same movement by turning the inner bolt, but if the bottom pivot bolts are too tight you run the risk of stripping the toothed mounting strip. PB Blaster soaking and loosening the bottom pivot bolt will help immensely.BTW keep the anti freeze off your fan belts can be problematic.

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              #7
              What Eddie said though take note in loosening the pivoting bolt(s) on the bottom of the pump. If you don't have those at least loose then moving the nut on the gears will not do much.

              instagram: @tonerrrr
              High resolution E30 Fuse Box 300dpi PNG

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                #8
                Loosen the adjuster at the outboard end of the upper bar and the bolt at the inner end of the bar. Then loosen the PS pump pivot bolt at the bottom. You should then be able to turn the star nut and move the pump in towards the engine.
                The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                  #9
                  hold the one i marked with a green arrow with a 19mm wrench. then loosen the one i marked with red with a 13mm wrench. you may need to loosen all the ones i marked with red.

                  the entire assembly will rotate upwards to loosen.
                  Attached Files
                  Much wow
                  I hate 4 doors

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                    #10
                    Just remember to use a crowbar or a pry bar of some sorts to regain tension on it when you re-tighten.

                    Good luck.


                    BLUE NOSE - M62 SWAP

                    THE E30 + 1 BUILD

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                      #11
                      you may need to loosen all the ones i marked with red.
                      Yup.
                      On all both of the E30s I've owned the star nut was previously destroyed. It doesn't seem to take much abuse before the teeth shear off. I consider it an over-engineered abomination. Probably cool when it works, but when it only half works it's a pain.
                      What jlevie says (and keep in mind that what he says is always good advice) will be true if the PO didn't destroy the toothed strip or the toothed nut.

                      I use big water pump pliers to do the tightening adjustment, and will order new mount hardware, toothed strip and nut in my winter parts order.

                      I agree that you should see how this project goes and consider getting experienced help for the timing belt change.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Court M3 View Post
                        Great way to dig into e30 ownership. haha Good luck tackling that gotta start somewhere.

                        lol inorite?

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Cabriolet View Post
                          hold the one i marked with a green arrow with a 19mm wrench. then loosen the one i marked with red with a 13mm wrench. you may need to loosen all the ones i marked with red.

                          the entire assembly will rotate upwards to loosen.
                          THANKS for explaining that, i did -not- get that that was how it worked at all...

                          the star nut and teeth are still good

                          BUT, the nut on the lower rear pivot bolt is all f---d up, its kind of rounded off, like the head is stripped slightly. i tried vice grips on it but even they keep slipping off. :/

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Eddie Haskell View Post
                            In your picture the far right toothed bolt is your adjuster. Loosen the outer bolt believe it's a 13mm while holding the inner larger bolt. Next place pry bar between the p/s pump and the chassis and lever the pump toward the engine. You can achieve the same movement by turning the inner bolt, but if the bottom pivot bolts are too tight you run the risk of stripping the toothed mounting strip. PB Blaster soaking and loosening the bottom pivot bolt will help immensely.BTW keep the anti freeze off your fan belts can be problematic.
                            thanks, that isnt my pic, but my belts have just as much if not more antifreeze on them.. the plan is to replace them anyway so i figure its not too bad. of course the plan was to start saturday and have this all finished up by sunday night

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                              #15
                              Re: the toothed nut. Next time you're ordering parts but a couple of spares. They're cheap and it's easy to strip that one and the one for your alternator. I'm pretty sure they're the same part (someone correct me if I'm wrong).


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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