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    #16
    the smaller combo wont result in faster piston speeds, you utilise a longer rod length than the 3L so the speeds are reduced at TDC.

    Formula for rod ratio is simply rod length / stroke.

    As for checking deck heights to match rod/crank/piston sizes, thats easy.

    Start with the deck height of the block (206.7mm), this is measured from the crank centerline to the top of the bore. Now take your crank stroke, divide it by half to find the throw. remember, cranks work in both direction, so you use the throw, not the actual stroke length to work out the distance from the crank centerline to the center line of the journal. Next you have the rod length, thats a pretty easy one, then you have the compression height which is the distance from the pin to the crown.

    Throw them all together and you can find out dimensions needed to actually fit the components into the engine. Say for example,

    84mm stroke of the M52
    135mm rods
    ??? piston compression height to make it work

    Compression height = 206.7mm (deck height of the block) - (135mm (rod length) + 42mm (crank throw))
    = 29.7mm

    Understand how it works? as long as you have 2 figures, you can work out the 3rd easily.

    If you want a formula to work out the effective piston speed when it reaches TDC, thats a whole different kettle of fish (but i think you wanted to know the above, with reguards to selecting component sizes).

    mmm, compression ratio isnt actually as important as people think, a full point increase in comp ratio results in about a 1.5-2% power gain at most. So, for the purpose of chasing horsepower, you have to weigh up the pro's and con's. In your case, i would probably aim for somewhere around a mid 9:1 ratio (so something like 9.5:1), maybe a little higher to around 10:1 if you get your tuning spot on, but i definately wouldnt go any higher than that (simply because of the fuel octane levels which will reduce the margins of error when tuning and running).
    Last edited by Madhatter; 03-16-2006, 01:16 AM.
    Just a little project im working on
    - http://www.lse30.com -

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      #17
      thanks for the info! a couple more questions....how much...reasonable not some outragious #'s...hp/torque can i expect from a m52b28 84mm stroke by 85 motor with good head work, ITB's, standalone, headers, cat back, ford cobra maf conv., a safe 9.5-9.75 cr (to allow for trouble free az summer driving 115 deg+ highs) on 91 octain, and more than likley a lightened flywheel. since this is either what i already have or am planning to use, this would more than likely be this set up i use. of coure everything will be balanced and prob use the pauter rods (135s) custom pistons. the reason i am asking is i have never driven a stroker m-20, so i have no basis for compairison. is this going to be a huge increase in drivable power or am i just getting more top end pull? i know that i want more than what i have with the 2.5 (which i am not all that unhappy with), meaning more overall power and especially more torque down low (comming out of corners in second) that's why i am going with the longer stroke than the ETA's 81mm
      thanks,
      greg
      Last edited by der affe; 03-21-2006, 01:20 AM.
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        #18
        and what about the oil pump? why does everyone put the 2.7 in? is it bigger for more pressure or volume? anyclearence issues with the 2.8 crank?
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          #19
          bump
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            #20
            I built a motor with M52b28 crank, M40b18 rods, and S50b30Euro pistons (with the tops cut down) .

            Problem with that is the motor loses some of it's revability... My current setup is with a 325iS Evo 2 crank (same crank as a 324td) , 325i rods, and S50B30Euro Pistons, giving me a 2.8lt rather than a 2.9lt from the 84mm stroke M52 crank.

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              #21
              how long are M40 rods?
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

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                #22
                the 2.8 crank works fine. you can even use the s52 (us model) crank w/ s52 rods and pistons from Metric mechanic. It actually doesn't come out that bad price wise. that is an 89 mm stroke i believe. I believe jim said they are making 240ish hp w/ those. thats with stock fuel and spark and still using the afm.

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                  #23
                  138mm is how long the M40 rods r.

                  Ahh, I just realised something... the S52, has a different stroke length 2 the S50B32 ...

                  I'm looking at Building a Tubo 3.0lt , in the next year, after I get bored of my N/A motor

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                    #24
                    where did you get the ITB set up?
                    '87 alpine white 325is

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                      #25
                      it came on the car, they are Dbilas, with the ford 95 cobra MAF, and split second controler. all stuff that BMP sells, so i think that that is where the kid got it from. the manifold doesn't say BMP though like the cat's picture though. thgey are not cheep, but i am not about to fcuk about with making my own, and going through manifold/plenum design until i get it right. btw i have a couple of posts on here or e30 (i can't remember which) with pics if you want to see them on a car.
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                        #26
                        bump to the top
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                          #27
                          Originally posted by der affe
                          thanks for the info! a couple more questions....how much...reasonable not some outragious #'s...hp/torque can i expect from a m52b28 84mm stroke by 85 motor with good head work, ITB's, standalone, headers, cat back, ford cobra maf conv., a safe 9.5-9.75 cr (to allow for trouble free az summer driving 115 deg+ highs) on 91 octain, and more than likley a lightened flywheel. since this is either what i already have or am planning to use, this would more than likely be this set up i use. of coure everything will be balanced and prob use the pauter rods (135s) custom pistons. the reason i am asking is i have never driven a stroker m-20, so i have no basis for compairison. is this going to be a huge increase in drivable power or am i just getting more top end pull? i know that i want more than what i have with the 2.5 (which i am not all that unhappy with), meaning more overall power and especially more torque down low (comming out of corners in second) that's why i am going with the longer stroke than the ETA's 81mm
                          thanks,
                          greg
                          Its going to depend in the dyno largely. But a true reading, given the restrictions the single cam head provides, a figure of 230hp+ isnt unreasonible.
                          Just a little project im working on
                          - http://www.lse30.com -

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by der affe
                            and what about the oil pump? why does everyone put the 2.7 in? is it bigger for more pressure or volume? anyclearence issues with the 2.8 crank?
                            havent encountered any flow problems as such with existing engines and oil pump combinations, i always replace them when rebuilding though to make sure they are working at their best. Unless you plan to really rev the engines you shouldnt need to worry too much about the oil pump, as a general rule (old school at that), you want about 10psi of oil pressure for every 1000rpm you produce.
                            Just a little project im working on
                            - http://www.lse30.com -

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                              #29
                              thanks for the info madhatter
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                                #30
                                crank or wheel hp...i think i know the answer, but please clairify.
                                thanks,
                                greg
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