Engine burning oil after rebuild....have 170 compression

[Vtec?lol]

Your rings haven't set as of yet. If you gapped and clocked them per spec then make sure you drive it in a proper break in method.

Some guys r3v the shit out them at cold starts, some warm them and drive hard.

[LavaSurfer]

Your rings haven't set as of yet. If you gapped and clocked them per spec then make sure you drive it in a proper break in method.

Some guys r3v the shit out them at cold starts, some warm them and drive hard.

I have 6-7k on the rebuild. I drive 75 miles round trip to work 5 days a week.

[Vtec?lol]

Well after reading that you have oil on the plugs, I would assume valve guides or the PCV. try disconnecting the hose from the valve cover and plug the valve cover with a small air filter and plug the hose off of it wih something solid so you don't have any vac leaks. seafoam the intake or clean it the best you can. Drive around like this for a while and if you are no longer burning oil then you've found your issue.

[LavaSurfer]

Well after reading that you have oil on the plugs, I would assume valve guides or the PCV. try disconnecting the hose from the valve cover and plug the valve cover with a small air filter and plug the hose off of it wih something solid so you don't have any vac leaks. seafoam the intake or clean it the best you can. Drive around like this for a while and if you are no longer burning oil then you've found your issue.

I was thinking of trying something exactly like this....

I guess we'll see what I find out.

[nando]

M20's don't have a PCV. it's just a hose that goes between the valve cover and throttle. there's no valve.

the rings could be toast, but it sounds like it runs OK. I'd check the intake for excessive oil residue. that would point to a vacuum leak.

[Earendil]

Since it's so quick to check, I'd make sure the shop put those valve seals on that you gave them. That seems like the sort of mistake that would leave oil on all your spark plugs, as opposed to screwing up one, two, or 5 cylinders.

Edit: Whoops, I'm late to this party. So was there a conclusion to this story? I'm interested.

[LavaSurfer]

I will update when I get into it, however its too damn cold here to tear anything down so my next step is a leakdown test and visual inspection under the valve cover. But I figure that since the oil buildup is pretty equal on all cylinders I don't have a valve seal or two that might not have been installed correctly that might have slipped off and got eaten in there. My only guess if its valve seals themselves then for some reason the seals that I got in my kit might be the wrong ones and not sealing correctly against the valves?

I don't want to drive my Audi in the winter/bad weather so I'm gonna wait until it warms up around here before I take the cylinder head off.....I'm just adding oil at the moment.

[DesertBMW]

My bet is on the damaged valve stem seal during installation.

[ADEN]

Mine did the same as yours

Try another DME mine did that after a rebuild becuase of the performance ship once i get the stock ship in smoke disappeard.

[NJ2.5rser]

Did you check the rear main and the cam/crank seals?


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[LavaSurfer]

I haven't crawled under they checking seals, however there is no oil drips/puddles in the drive way that would say I'm losing a couple quarts a week.

[NJ2.5rser]

Notice any white smoke while your driving, it's possible that when you reassembled the motor something was caught in one of the oil passageways and causes it to build enough pressure to push oil past wherever is the easiest route. Just a thought.
I haven't built any m20s but I have built a few wrx, Sti and evo motors and have heard of this happening and seen it happen.
Didn't read anything previous to this but have you done a leak down test? If so what were the results?


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[EyExR]

why would an air leak cause oil consumption???