Yes I've searched. Little background info: bought this 1990 325i from auction recently. Noticed it had a conti timing belt replacement sticker on firewall along with newer lookin hoses and radiator. Fixed idle issue so far, now dealing with overheating issue at idle only. Noticed it was leakin coolant from waterpumo area. So replaced waterpump, fan clutch, tstat and timing belt. Yet still overheats at idle. Bled the system, thing is I used regular tap water with prestone coolant. Bleeder screw is done "burping" out coolant, but these very minuscule oxygen bubbles continue coming out even after bled 6 times ( could that be from using tap instead of distiller water?) also noticed my hose from tstat to waterpump has bein chewed up by engine( but don't feel any coolant on hose?) and low speed on aux doesn't work ( but if cooling system is running properly shouldn't even need that right?) read that it might be blown HG, but no oil in coolant or vice versa. Exhaust doesn't excessively smoke or smell sweet and recently passed DEQ. If I blast the heat and rev the engine temp goes down.Anybody have any ideas???
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"We at BMW do not build cars as consumer objects, just to drive from A to B. We build mobile works of art." -
Oh yea and fan shroud cracked when I was putting it back in. But kinda rigged it to stay in there and not be hit by the fan. While bleeding coolant like pulses out slowly. Please help been reading so much feel like eyes are gonna pop out
"We at BMW do not build cars as consumer objects, just to drive from A to B. We build mobile works of art." -
With a new fan clutch and thermostat, the likely suspects are a clogged radiator or a head gasket leak that is pumping air into the cooling system. Once fully bled the only way air can get into the cooling system is from a head gasket leak. So if you fully bleed the system drive the car for a bit and re-bleed and get a significant amount of air out the head gasket is leaking.
Oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil are two of the failure symptoms. Air being pumped into the cooling system is another. And engine can exhibit any single or combination of those symptoms.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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In your experience how many times does it take to properly bleed the sytem. 5 maybe 10 times?"We at BMW do not build cars as consumer objects, just to drive from A to B. We build mobile works of art."Comment
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If you dont mind me asking, are you going off the coolant gauge in the dash that is telling you that it is overheating? Sounds stupid to ask but just wanted to help eliminate some other possibilties.
You could have done everything right but the coolant sensor could be bad as well as the coolant temp gauge in the dash. If you are going off the coolant gauge in the dash.
The water used shouldnt have any impact on the transfer of heat unless you are extremely anal about what is used and feel that one is better than the other. In the end some type of water is better than not adding none at all.Comment
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Yea im going off cluster. I know sometimes they go inaccurate( my gas gauge jumps around almost constantly) but the temp needle slowely rises like it should. And when its gets to the 3/4 mark the coolant is obviously overheated an begins to come out of overflow tube. So i do trust that gauge. Just got done workin on it (changed diff oil) and checked the fan clutch just cause: it shreds the cardboard when cold, but cardboard stops fan when hot. So lame hoe can brand new fan clutch be bad? :hitler:"We at BMW do not build cars as consumer objects, just to drive from A to B. We build mobile works of art."Comment
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I had a similar situation with my car when I first bought it...
Just like yours, passed DEQ and was relatively reliable. It's been 20k miles after doing the head gasket and my car has never even thought about overheating, since.Comment
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Had many fan clutches come out of the box and bad at my shop. Roll up some newspaper and see if it stops the fan while engine is running. Companies store them incorrectly.
Also, the little hose from the expansion to the radiator gets clogged. Revving the engine, you should see a steady flow off coolant going back to the reservoir. If not, check the rubber hose, or the hole in the radiator (which is very small and easily gets clogged). A paperclip straightened out to poke into the radiator line usually does the trick if the little hose is new and you still don't see coolant flow.Comment
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Clogged radiator, head gasket? Btw tap water isn't good for your block. Buy deionized water.sigpic
1999 528it - Daily Driver “Dad Wagon”
1991 325is - 2.8L Budget Stroker Garage Slut
1991 318is - Sold
1986 325 - Sold
Instagram - LamoursumComment
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Just once if done correctly. The ideal way is with a vacuum fill system, but lacking the equipment the following is almost as good:Originally posted by E30Pacman View Post
1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.
2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.
3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.
4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.
5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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Yea that's the procedure that I follow. But stuck on step 5. getting little bubbles comin out next few days... How can I tell if radiator is clogged? It's kinda hard to feel around it with all the hoses in the way. And if I do gets my hands in a spot the most heat I feel is a hose, the radiator itself just seems lukewarm."We at BMW do not build cars as consumer objects, just to drive from A to B. We build mobile works of art."Comment
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Well i just came to work on it. When i open the resivoir cao the coolant level is like 2 inches lower than where i left it yesterday, and cannot see any visible leaks.... more signs of blown HG huh..."We at BMW do not build cars as consumer objects, just to drive from A to B. We build mobile works of art."Comment
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