Connecting rod options?

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  • digger
    R3V Elite
    • Nov 2005
    • 5926

    #31
    forged rods an NA m20 are mostly overkill unless you are turning alot of rpm or have clearance issues. 24V bmw rods are best bfyb but they dont come in 130mm. 550g is also not what would be called lightfor a 130mm rod

    a lighter flywheel will be more perceptible IMO interms of responseness and better value for money is a forged aftermarket piston , cylinder head porting, or a proper induction system
    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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    • abit
      E30 Addict
      • Jul 2011
      • 416

      #32
      Originally posted by digger
      forged rods an NA m20 are mostly overkill unless you are turning alot of rpm or have clearance issues. 24V bmw rods are best bfyb but they dont come in 130mm. 550g is also not what would be called lightfor a 130mm rod

      a lighter flywheel will be more perceptible IMO interms of responseness and better value for money is a forged aftermarket piston , cylinder head porting, or a proper induction system

      ok, thanks for answer.

      head is already ported and matched with intake (stock) and exhaust (sebring headers) from previous season.
      Now I'm building/improving engine for next season, so I already bought catcams 285/285 degrees camshaft which will go in. And at the same time I'm thinking about bottom end. So you say that I should better just shave some weight from flywheel than putting in lighter rods, and trying to get down weight from pistons/ piston wrist pin, all the vertically moving parts?
      http://instagram.com/mundieriss
      my 88' m20b30 HERE!

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      • digger
        R3V Elite
        • Nov 2005
        • 5926

        #33
        Originally posted by abit
        ok, thanks for answer.

        head is already ported and matched with intake (stock) and exhaust (sebring headers) from previous season.
        Now I'm building/improving engine for next season, so I already bought catcams 285/285 degrees camshaft which will go in. And at the same time I'm thinking about bottom end. So you say that I should better just shave some weight from flywheel than putting in lighter rods, and trying to get down weight from pistons/ piston wrist pin, all the vertically moving parts?
        Removing weight rotating/reciprocating weight is not a bad idea but i personally don't see it being worth the price of a new set of aftermarket rods for the engine spec you are planning.

        as for custom pistons i mean you can get a nice CR suitable for a bigger camshaft, they can be made with comp height that will allow use of 135mm rod length which enables the option using uber cheap 24V rods which are lighter inherently, also you wont need to machine the crank CW as you would with the B28 crank/130mm rod/b25 2.8L combo)….most cost effective option is stock rods it is a proven combo. a custom piston will be lighter but that is not why i would choose them

        Focus on power producing mods if you want more power, the money saved on rods can be put towards things that will make a much bigger difference for example ITB setup and tuning
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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