Starting after rebuild

[E46Twist]

only code was 1215

[Cabriolet]

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/669551

AFM not plugged in?

[E46Twist]

It have tried it plugged in and unplugged. The only thing I can think anymore would be the cap and rotor.

[EatsHondas]

Cold compression test. 122 on damn near every cylinder 2 was 127 and 6 was 120 all other were 121-123. This seems low so maybe the head and block did not agree. I am also not getting a fire on 3 and 4 and they are in the right spots. Could this be a timing thing?

Forgot to add I did not tighten the two inner lower EM stud nuts down in case I needed to take the head back off. Also did comp test with WOT to keep fuel out with out messing with the relay.

"Fast is Sexy"

A compression test is always supposed to be at WOT. Fuel pump, main, and O2 heater relays sit by themselves right by the left strut tower under a plastic shroud.

If you're getting spark on some plugs but not others, that's an ignition problem. If it was timing related, you would have problems with all your cylinders. Make sure your cap, rotor, and wires are in good shape and hooked up properly. If it ran before, it should run now.

[E46Twist]

well while messing with it today I broke the cap when tightening it down. Have to wait a few days for new one to come. I am not going to throw parts at it and I can't find a single thing wrong. if the obvious doesn't fix it(ignition) I am just going to sell my motors and start the s50 swap. I just wanted to get the car running to get it to body and paint but it makes no sense to put money into a motor when I will only use it for a few months.

[Balleristic31]

Did you check the afm? That is what is faulting with a 1215 code.

[E46Twist]

Didn't get a chance yet, Ill clean it up

[E46Twist]

So I replaced the dizzy cap and no spark in those cylinders at the plugs. So I will test the wires but I know they worked pre engine tear down

"Fast is Sexy"

[E46Twist]

Some what of an update. I checked the plug wires and all measured around the same resistance so I cant see why some would work and some didnt. So if I replaced the cap, plugs are new ,and wires check out I have no idea. any input on what to check would be great.

[E46Twist]

Guys I could really use some help on this. I am just wasting my time and the only solution I have left is to start replacing thing which I dont want to do.

[E46Twist]

Although this thread is not getting many posts I know I hate stumbling on to dead end posts. So A buddy came over today to help me test spark again. Here is what we found, no spark from distributor on #2 and #4 which and all others at least had spark but we are not sure how strong. Now I replaced the dizzy cap with a used "working" one a couple weeks ago because I cracked mine while installing it. The problem persisted in an identical fashion after installing the new used part which doesn't eliminate it but after a good clean up the posts didnt look bad at all. So who is the culprit? well unless there is gypsy magic amiss it is the dizzy rotor. If it was coil then all cylinders would not get spark. Again we tested at the dizzy so wires were not involved.
I do find it odd that only two posts are not getting arc but I am not yet familiar with the e30s system. so the best option is to replace the cap and rotor. The fact that two cylinders were missing made it very hard to pinpoint problems because when the car did want to idle it was shit.

[nrn1988]

if you got a bentley and a ohm/volt meter check out sec 6-48. only way i ever got my car running after idecided to take it apart. what always got the best of me was intake leaks, and electrical shorts at the feul relay and the little green timing wire.

[E46Twist]

Well it has fuel and does start. I narrowed it down to no spark on 2 and 4 at the dizzy. I have however read that if you get the timing cover on wrong your distributor would be off center and could cause a misfire

"Fast is Sexy"

[E46Twist]

Okay so I finally got around to installing my new Dizzy cap and rotor and... no change. This time I checked for spark as my buddy cranked the car.. I am not sure what his BAC was when he had been checking it but I got spark at all of the plugs. So I am back to thinking that it is CPS or an air leak which I cannot find. However I have decided to rebuild the motor so hopefully after that I can rule out air and fuel and see if I can figure it out.

[E30NJ]

Check your distributor cap and rotor and clean the points and rotor with a emery board. What kind of plugs do you have in it?