I know... But I can't find a thread with a solution to my problem.

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  • Coy325i
    Noobie
    • Mar 2014
    • 27

    #1

    I know... But I can't find a thread with a solution to my problem.

    I know, old e30's frequently have a rough idle.

    I have the following symptoms with my 1989 325i convertible:
    * Car starts and idles okay cold, but when I give it gas it acts like it's either starving or flooding. When I get it up to 25-3000 rpms, it's fine but getting there, it makes a lot of noise - but not much power.
    * It doesn't stop acting like an air compressor when the temp gauge says it's warm, it acts like that until it has come to full operating temp 10-15 minutes.
    * When I come to a stop, it idles very rough (hot or cold - but not always; sometimes it idles pretty good, sometimes it literally shakes).
    * When it warms up, it runs very well but it still might idle rough, as if it is loading up. It acts like it's slowly flooding.
    * Pull away from a stop, and it stumbles until it clears and then runs great (1500 -2000 rpm) until you come to a complete stop again.

    Plugs are all gray and nice when I inspect them. Smoke test showed no hose leaks and in fact all hoses appear fairly new. Had a real mechanic test all components separately and they tested okay. I cannot find an obvious cause. I did a tune up and replaced the fuel filter and replaced the fule injectors with 19# 4 hole injectors (didn't make any difference at all to my idle, but it runs really strong).

    Can anyone explain to me how the Bosch FI system handles cold starts? I know there isn't a choke and I don't believe I have a cold start injector. Do I have something out of adjustment? I tested the ICV and it test good electronically, but I have ordered a replacement assuming it may have failed mechanically, just because controlling the air/gas at idle is specifically what it does... right?

    I wrote pelican and they just said that it was high mileage, and that could be, but it runs great in every other respect except idling. In fact, it's an automatic with 240,000 miles, and it will still scratch the tires from first to second in drive; I just think it runs too good for that to be the problem... am I way off?

    Thanks for any assistance.
  • Sea Aych
    Mod Crazy
    • Apr 2013
    • 763

    #2
    How's the fuel pump?
    Also check out your AFM for any dead spots
    Also you're right: "i" cars don't have cold start injectors
    1988 Atlantisblau Euro/Japanese 325i Cabriolet
    1989 Schwartz 325i - now M50 powered! - now very dead
    1998 Toyota 4Runner Limited
    My 17,000km Big NA National Parks trip!

    Comment

    • akorcovelos
      E30 Enthusiast
      • Dec 2006
      • 1149

      #3
      Compression and vacuum readings will tell you a lot.

      2012 MCSCC/NSSCC CP class champ
      HSAX Instructor

      Comment

      • Coy325i
        Noobie
        • Mar 2014
        • 27

        #4
        I don't know how to test the MAF sensor, but my mechanic said he looked it up on the interweb and ran the test and it passed. It accelerates smoothly throughout the range (once it clears out from a stop light) after it's warmed up. I could let it warm up in the mornings if I needed to, the worst thing is the inconsistent idle. It's driving me nuts!

        I don't know how to test the fuel pump, but the fuel pressure regulator was okay too. Wouldn't that be off if the pump was failing?

        So during cold start, with no cold start injector, is the idle speed controlled by the ICV?

        Comment

        • SmokeE30
          E30 Mastermind
          • Jun 2009
          • 1730

          #5
          T a fuel pressure gauge into the system and watch it during the stumbling conditions, it pretty easy to have the wiper blade hold the gauge against the windshield while driving to watch it.
          Shawn @ Bimmerbuddies
          Bimmerbuddies LLC
          717-388-1256
          2971a Roundtop Rd, Middletown PA 17057
          bimmerbuddiesllc@gmail.com

          Comment

          • jlevie
            R3V OG
            • Nov 2006
            • 13530

            #6
            Was the smoke test done properly? That would mean plugging the exhaust and replacing the AFM with a plug and nipple for smoke injection. Then oil smoke is introduced until a pressure of 2-4psi is reached and that pressure held for at least 5 minutes.

            Compression (dry and wet) and leak down tests are also a necessary diagnostic.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

            Comment

            • Coy325i
              Noobie
              • Mar 2014
              • 27

              #7
              Smoke test was done right. Haven't done a compression check.

              Comment

              • bad3
                Noobie
                • Jul 2006
                • 8

                #8
                it was ICV for me.

                Comment

                • Coy325i
                  Noobie
                  • Mar 2014
                  • 27

                  #9
                  I replaced the ICV, but that didn't make any difference.

                  Comment

                  • akorcovelos
                    E30 Enthusiast
                    • Dec 2006
                    • 1149

                    #10
                    Test the resistance on your afm, and test your tps.

                    2012 MCSCC/NSSCC CP class champ
                    HSAX Instructor

                    Comment

                    • Coy325i
                      Noobie
                      • Mar 2014
                      • 27

                      #11
                      The AFM tested okay, but I've ordered a replacement... That seems a likely culprit, because the problem is only there at idle and particularly ay certain temperatures (air pressure). What is a tps?

                      Comment

                      • akorcovelos
                        E30 Enthusiast
                        • Dec 2006
                        • 1149

                        #12
                        If the afm tested OK then its probably not the issue. TPS is throttle position sensor, located on the bottom of the throttle body. It is a 3 position switch triggering idle, partial, and WOT maps in the ecu. I'm guessing your tps either needs to be adjusted or replaced. Test it for continuity per the Bentley manual (or Google).

                        2012 MCSCC/NSSCC CP class champ
                        HSAX Instructor

                        Comment

                        • Coy325i
                          Noobie
                          • Mar 2014
                          • 27

                          #13
                          I finally replaced the temp sensor and it idles like a swiss watch... once it warms up. When it's cold it will idle fine, but it will bogg down every time I give it gas. I shift down and feather it up to around 3000 rpm and it runs ... but not well. Not until it's run for about 15 minutes.

                          What controls cold starts? Do you think it could be the ECU?

                          Comment

                          • jlevie
                            R3V OG
                            • Nov 2006
                            • 13530

                            #14
                            Cold start enrichment is controlled by the DME using inputs from the ECT and IAT sensors.
                            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                            Comment

                            • Coy325i
                              Noobie
                              • Mar 2014
                              • 27

                              #15
                              I'm sorry. That'd probably be helpful, if I knew more about this, but I'm afraid I don't understand. Also I started right off with a typo; I think , I meant ECT, not ECU.

                              Where is the Intake temp sensor located on a 1989 2.5L? I thought that intake air temperature was handled by the AFM.

                              I've replaced the Air flow meter, Idle control Unit, and Coolant temp sensor. I had the Oxygen sensor tested and had the entire system smoke tested, with no vacuum leaks. Fuel pressure is normal, so I assume the fuel pumps are alright.

                              I'm wondering if it might be the computer unit in the glove box. Should I just look for a good used one and see?

                              Comment

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