Serpentine conversion?

[tinkerputzer]

people forget to loosen the nut on the back first and also over tighten them. they won't strip if you're thoughtful. the ones you had were likely old and already partially stripped. the design isn't too bad but the quality of materials is a little iffy and if you don't loosen the nut on the back you put a lot more force into the teeth than you need to.

Also having the nut too loose can cause the teeth not be fully meshed also causing problems.

[squidrope]

Auto-X is alot easier to notice then when your 4 deep in a corner and trying to avoid a spin ahead. A big light on a panel would be better than the small idiot light, be a large idiot light that your driver would/should heed.


As we know, Keith mine did not not heed it and spun the bearings on the M52. Low oil pressure light came on and he drove it anyway.

I am presently looking for a new team. Might just go back to TAG karts. Cheaper.

We have a oil temp gauge but it isn't easily read while dicing it up. (we should've spent a little more and got one with an idiot light built in)

We are stripping our spare motor to send to the machine shop tomorrow night.

If you want to stop by. and meet the others. We are looking for another team mate or 2 ;)

[squidrope]

the alternator is on the same belt. if you dont notice your dash looking like a Christmas tree and the lack of power - this is driver failure, no added sensor will overcome negligence. also swap the the I waterpump pulley, it is larger and will cause the pump to spin more slowly.

We de-wired the whole car including the dash. We're just using the tach, speedo, and fuel gauge.

We watched the go pro video and the driver(not me) shouldn't be blamed. He did great job coming in as soon as he felt power loss.

Will consider reducing the pulley size. Car runs cool as long as we have a belt.

[Cabriolet]

We de-wired the whole car including the dash. We're just using the tach, speedo, and fuel gauge.

ah well. here is what i would do then. the battery light will still need to be wired so it will charge. run a relay off of that and when that line goes hot you can have a bright bulb on the dash warning you that something is wrong. or tap into the CEL on the DME and run that to the dash. both lines with will be hot if you loose a belt again.

[nando]

is he using the stock alternator? the exciter wire needs to be hooked up for the alt to work, unless he's not using a stock alternator. the easiest way to fix that, instead of a relay, is wire it up like it is on the stock cluster. it's basically a 12v bulb and a resistor wired in parallel in case the bulb burns out.

[squidrope]

is he using the stock alternator? the exciter wire needs to be hooked up for the alt to work, unless he's not using a stock alternator. the easiest way to fix that, instead of a relay, is wire it up like it is on the stock cluster. it's basically a 12v bulb and a resistor wired in parallel in case the bulb burns out.

Stock alternator.

Have no idea what or how this is wired (I'm more the mech. guy on our team)but the battery is being charged, and if the alternator fails it doesn't show on the panel.


I think the thing we did wrong was tried to save a few bucks by not getting oil temp gauge with idiot light.


ps-posted in 2 threads because I didn't know how many people migrated between the threads. Can you unlock the other thread so that I could get input from the racers too?

[jlevie]

Go back and re-read post #8. The coolant temp gauge is only trustworthy if everything is working as it is supposed to. Failure of the alternator/water pump belt or a loss of coolant will not be reflected by the temperature (or oil temp) until it is way too late. A working alternator warning light helps in the case of a belt failure, but you really need real measurement of head temperature.

[squidrope]

Go back and re-read post #8. The coolant temp gauge is only trustworthy if everything is working as it is supposed to. Failure of the alternator/water pump belt or a loss of coolant will not be reflected by the temperature (or oil temp) until it is way too late. A working alternator warning light helps in the case of a belt failure, but you really need real measurement of head temperature.

I have a couple old battery powered head temp gauges I used when karting. I'll see about adapting one of them.

Thanks

[M-technik-3]

Here's a thought you could put a pressure gauge on coolant. When belt is tossed you are going to see a drop in pressure. We have this. But we were m52 powered

[squidrope]

Here's a thought you could put a pressure gauge on coolant. When belt is tossed you are going to see a drop in pressure. We have this. But we were m52 powered

Would the pressure drop when the water isn't circulating? Or would the pressure increase due to boiling in the block?

[M-technik-3]

What I was told when pump fails pressure drops due to lack of positive pressure.