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Couple questions on the old m20

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    Couple questions on the old m20

    So I got another e30 and it's a late model 325is this is my first experience with a real m20 cause on my euro spec it was a b20 and I ripped it out right away and shoved a m30 in so I don't really have a lot of knowledge on the m20 besides the basics. The car has already had the timing belt and such replaced I'm just wondering what I can do to make it run the best it can. I put some e3 plugs in it and that helped but it seems to idle a little high for me around 1200-1400 sometimes it may drop down to around 1000-1100 what could I do to improve that or is this the normal m20 idle? My b20 had a idle issue so it always ran at like 1700. Also what's the best oil for these things? I got some high mileage valvoline 5-20


    1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
    1991 318i 4dr slick top


    Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
    Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
    Mtech 2 turbo restoration
    Brilliantrot slick top "build"

    #2
    idle:
    - smoke test the car, locate leaks.
    - buy new vacuum hoses and replace as needed (in 80% of all cases thats the problem).
    - check ICV (remove, inspect, clean - if it doesnt click when you move it its gunked up)
    - check AFM (a guy on the forums refurbishes them for $150, or you can get a low mileage replacement - there is a surface inside that wears out.)
    - Replace Coolant temperature sensor
    - Check voltage regulator (even if it doesn't help the idle, its good to replace it, since they designed it to wear through use)

    After this it gets complicated, I would try those first =) Next steps involve replacing intake manifold and throttle body seals. =)

    Hope this helps.
    And 1400 is NOT a normal idle, I would say its about 2x the normal idle.


    AFAIK, you should run 10W40 (cold weather) or 20W50 (warm weather) in these engines. 5W20 is way too low. But thats just me, maybe some of the guys will know for sure =)

    Comment


      #3
      ^yup, i run 10W40 in the (canadian) winter, and 20W50 for when the temps go back above 10C

      *edit: regular, not synthetic
      1988 Atlantisblau Euro/Japanese 325i Cabriolet
      1989 Schwartz 325i - now M50 powered! - now very dead
      1998 Toyota 4Runner Limited
      My 17,000km Big NA National Parks trip!

      Comment


        #4
        These motors dont use synthetic?


        1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
        1991 318i 4dr slick top


        Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
        Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
        Mtech 2 turbo restoration
        Brilliantrot slick top "build"

        Comment


          #5
          you can use either one really. mine has been running pretty nice on mobil1 15-50 synthetic. it's available at walmart now too so it's cheap/easy to get

          1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
          IG: @mitchlikesbikes

          Comment


            #6
            I just put the 5-20 in yesterday so I may go get so castrol gtx 20-50 cenventional. It's only 20 for 5 quarts at walmart.


            1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
            1991 318i 4dr slick top


            Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
            Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
            Mtech 2 turbo restoration
            Brilliantrot slick top "build"

            Comment


              #7
              The use of synthetic oil can be iffy in these engines because it contains higher amount of detergent. Many users have experienced oil leaks after switching over to synthetic, some not. The car will run just fine with either oil, but if you are not lucky then you will have to deal with a leaky engine.

              Comment

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