323i Euro Import. Where do I find parts (plus other new-owner questions)?

[James_Baxter]

So I just got this car not too long ago, and I am going through and fixing all the problems that comes with buying a used car this old. My problem is finding parts for a euro market car. Is there a comparable US e30 with the m20b23 that I can tell Autozone/O'Riley's to search for? Do I have any good online options? Even Amazon wont give me the right option.

Also, while Im making a post, what would be the right coolant temp sensor for my car? I have a rough cold idle, the check lights tell me that I need to check my coolant level (its fine) and my temp gauge doesn't work. Im also running really rich (failed emissions with 3x the CO limit ), so I think my problems would be solved by a new temp sensor (and probably a new O2 sensor, I just seafoamed). I only ask because online searches have been giving me a bit of a run-around (see question #1).

Thanks guys. I'm really glad a dedicated forum exists like this. I hope to contribute here someday. Cheers.

[kronus]

realoem.com will let you pull up all the parts you might need by VIN or production date

good luck with your 323i! a bunch of us here have them. The engine management is difficult to work with.

[redlightpete]

There are few parts that you'll want to get at auto chain stores. If you get the part numbers as described above you can find either aftermarket or discount BMW parts online. My local dealer also gives a good discount to bmwcca members. You can get advice on aftermarket part brands on this forum.
The coolant level sensors just wear out after a while, and the temp gauge may be an instrument cluster problem.

[James_Baxter]

realoem.com will let you pull up all the parts you might need by VIN or production date.

Jesus that's perfect. Thank you.

[James_Baxter]

Does anyone know the realOEM path for the Lambda sensor? Im starting to get the feeling I dont have one.

[kronus]

grey market 323i's generally didn't come with them from the factory. depending on who federalized yours, and for entry into which state, you might have an aftermarket one installed and tied into a "Johnson box" (google johnson box o2 sensor) that hooks into the ECU coolant temp sensor circuit and leans the car out to pass smog.

can you grab a photo of your federalization sticker?

[kronus]

Also, while Im making a post, what would be the right coolant temp sensor for my car? I have a rough cold idle, the check lights tell me that I need to check my coolant level (its fine) and my temp gauge doesn't work. Im also running really rich (failed emissions with 3x the CO limit ), so I think my problems would be solved by a new temp sensor (and probably a new O2 sensor, I just seafoamed). I only ask because online searches have been giving me a bit of a run-around (see question #1).

some more general advice:

your rough cold idle is likely due to vacuum leaks and/or an inoperational aux air valve. The 323i uses a aux air valve for extra airflow when cold, and a diaphragm-based pushrod that directly actuates the throttle plate for regular idle speed control.

the aux air valves are difficult to find. I took mine out of the circuit and blocked off the vacuum lines it uses to cut down on vac leaks because it didn't work anyway.

ignore the check lights for now, that's likely just a busted sensor or sensor circuit. The sensor sits in the top of the overflow tank.

I still have the majority of the various vacuum lines, AFM, intake elbow and idle control diaphragm from when I parted out my b23. It would be very easy to talk me out of them.

I also have recently rebuilt and cleaned L-Jet injectors, as well as a new FPR, if you're interested.

[kronus]

also this will be useful



there might be some minor differences (this is from an early e28 520i) but it gives you a general description of how everything is routed.

[James_Baxter]

can you grab a photo of your federalization sticker?

I haven't seen one on my car, but unfortunately a PO had the car repainted, and they had little to no regard for what they painted over (even the rubber trim around the windshields). I assume it would be on my driver's door panel, correct?

[James_Baxter]

I took mine out of the circuit and blocked off the vacuum lines it uses to cut down on vac leaks because it didn't work anyway.

So in doing so, you keep it permanently closed, and therefor retain your rough early idle, correct? Honestly it doesn't bother me all that much, I just need to fix my A/F ratio, and thought that the rough idle could be caused by the temp sensor that may or may not be attached to a Johnson box (cant find one, but its dark and tbh Im not sure where to begin looking) that may or may not be making me run rich.

[kronus]

The box is typically near the ECU, behind the upper panel of the glovebox. First, check that you even have an O2 sensor. If you don't, you won't have the box.

What year is your car? There were some later L-Jet ECUs that did have O2 sensors. The federalization sticker is likely to be in the driver's or passenger's door jamb, or on one of the shock towers under the hood.

When I took my aux air valve out, I had to mess with the throttle body's plate stop to set a decent idle. It was fairly high (900) but relatively smooth, and didn't have problems as the car was warming up.

[raudonis]

Listen to a friendly advice and convert your b23 to Motronic 1.3.

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Converting_to_Motronic_1.3

Jetronic is so quirky, you will never get it to run 100% perfectly, believe me - I and many others have tried. There are ignition/fueling parts that are not manufactured and sold anymore - available NOS only, they are expensive if you find them and even then they do not function 100% properly because materials inside have aged beyond what they were designed for.

[Court M3]

Conversion to 1.3 is not bad, but if you want to keep it original, believe I have a Haynes manual for the 323 at home as well as factory if you have any further questions