Help with TDC

[Chimi]

Sorry for the suspense... I went to the local hardware store only to find they had a set that stopped at E10 so I had to order the E Torx set online. Then I got crushed by a busy week at work.

I finally found TDC, but I have another question in case anyone can answer it here. What is the best way to remove the old cam seal? I found that one of my sockets is almost the right size for me to push it out, but for the life of me, I can't do that with my hands. It seems to take a tremendous amount of force -- any other tricks to doing this? I suspect it'll also be difficult to get the new one in based on how difficult this is...

[Andy.B]

I'm not sure what you mean by pushing it out.

The piece that the seal presses into is removable, and had an o-ring that seals it to the head , and the cam seal itself must be pried out of that carrier.

With the carrier removed, you should see what I mean.

[Chimi]

That's the part I'm having trouble with - getting the cam seal itself out of the carrier.

[Andy.B]

Oic. I would position it face down, with the 'ears' of the carrier on something to space it off the table, and use a flathead screwdriver and hammer to drive it out.


Edit: like this... About 2/3rds down the page.

[Chimi]

Oic. I would position it face down, with the 'ears' of the carrier on something to space it off the table, and use a flathead screwdriver and hammer to drive it out.


Edit: like this... About 2/3rds down the page.

Did you put a link in that post? I don't see anything.

I tried again today using a screwdriver and a mallet to get it out, but it's not working out well. I'm beginning to suspect some sealant or adhesive was used making it difficult to get out. Basically, my efforts resulted this... which is to say, no progress.

I might just buy a new guide; it looks like it'll be faster at this point.

Tracked down the part number; it's 11121264640 . Anyone know whether the one from ECSTuning is okay? I usually order from blunttech -- didn't turn up in a part number search.

[RobDog]

I used some steel pipe left over from my chain link fence. I think it was 1 1/2 inch pipe, maybe 2 inch. I cut a 6 inch piece and used a rubber mallet to knock it out. It's easy and works great.

[Chimi]

I ended up just buying a new part and that worked out well. This simple job is turning out to be the gift that keeps on giving.

I ordered http://bmw.blunttech.com/E30-Cooling...0-p190702.html since I plan to replace the hoses associated with the cooling system.

I installed the Graf water pump (which is highly recommended on the forums I think...) and found there is an interference issue with the upper timing belt cover.

The pictures below show both the interference issue and the resultant gap at the top. Is this normal?

[RobDog]

It looks like you are missing the engine hoist bracket. Without that bracket the covers wiil not align and also can cause your rotor to eat your cap. Google a picture of a bmw m20 and look for this bracket just behind the top timing cover. It kinda stands out.

I hated my first timing belt change. I also forgot to put this engine hoist bracket back on and was pissed when things didnt align lol. Timing belt changes get alot easier after the first time and become simple, but a little time consuming.

[Chimi]

Hey RobDog,

Thanks. I just looked up what it looks like on RealOEM and noticed that after reading your post. I should just print out those pages whenever I'm working on something...

[Chimi]

I finally got parts and got everything assembled. New hoses, thermostat, coolant flushed and seems to be good. BUT there is a ticking sound. I adjusted the valves, but maybe I made a mistake. Or maybe I ended up damaging the valves...

One thing, I let the car get up to temperature then did a few loops around the block to make sure the car doesn't overheat and that the coolant system is free of air. Once I pulled back into the garage and stepped out, I noticed something that smelled like it had burned... It seemed somewhat rubbery, but I did not hear anything that would indicate rubber being rubbed up against - no squealing or anything like that. Is there a fast way for me to diagnose what the smell is or whether my valves are okay? The ticking is rather loud, so I am not sure whether this is simply the M20 ticking or maybe it's a valve issue.

Aside, I can't seem to remove my spark plugs. It almost seems like the thickness of my sockets are too thick to actually pull the plug or maybe the wrong size was put in before me. 13/16 fits the plugs I have sitting new in the box, but I can't get the old spark plugs out.

[cornchip]

Oh no! I’m glad I ran across this thread before I did something really stupid!

I was under the impression that you just lined up the ticks on the gears up to the timing marks on the shrouds & blocks. But now….

oh no…

[cornchip]

Oh no! I’m glad I ran across this thread before I did something really stupid!

I was under the impression that you just lined up the ticks on the gears up to the timing marks on the shrouds & blocks. But now….

oh no…

like this.

I don’t understand why there would be marks machined in if they didn’t mean anything?

[82eye]

like this.

I don’t understand why there would be marks machined in if they didn’t mean anything?

you align everything - both on the head and block, before removing the old belt. make sure nothing moves as you do the job.

head








block







block with pulleys and vibration damper installed








couple pics were ripped from another site so i hope they show