Background:
Car ran at perfect temp prior to timing belt/water pump replacement
Replaced:
Put everything back together and attempted to bleed system...
Per the directions:
1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.
Car was up on ramps
2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of the bleed.
I filled the expansion tank with almost a full gallon of fluid but coolant never came out of the opened bleeder screw (I removed it completely).
3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top up the coolant as necessary.
Heater was on full blast. The only thing exiting the bleeder screw is steam.
4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to repeat this a few times to get all the air out.
Revving the motor will result in intermittent fluid and then steam again.
Other notes:
Help?
Car ran at perfect temp prior to timing belt/water pump replacement
Replaced:
- Timing Belt tensioner
- Timing Belt
- Water Pump
- Thermostat
- Fan and Fan Clutch
Put everything back together and attempted to bleed system...
Per the directions:
1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.
Car was up on ramps
2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of the bleed.
I filled the expansion tank with almost a full gallon of fluid but coolant never came out of the opened bleeder screw (I removed it completely).
3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top up the coolant as necessary.
Heater was on full blast. The only thing exiting the bleeder screw is steam.
4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to repeat this a few times to get all the air out.
Revving the motor will result in intermittent fluid and then steam again.
Other notes:
- Temp will get almost to red (I shut it off before it hit that point)
- Heat was blowing hot but is now blowing cold despite engine being fully hot
- All Radiator hoses are hot except the lowest most radiator hose as bottom of radiator
- Radiator itself not hot (cool to touch) despite the steam and engine temperature.
Help?
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